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A Century of…Fours (Jun 2024)

The 2004 Léoville Las Cases has a noticeable mintiness on the nose that actually complements the red fruit, though it deviates away from what you might call Saint-Julien typicité. After ten minutes, it coheres with ash and black tea aromas. The palate is medium-bodied with a rounded texture on the entry. The 2004 shows fine…

Tuscany 2009 and 2010: A World of Opposites (Jun 2012)

The 2008 Ornellaia continues to blossom in the bottle. Dark cherries, chocolate, espresso, blackberries and mocha are just some of the many notes that explode from the glass. A rich tapestry of licorice, tar and camphor notes develop in the glass, adding considerable complexity. The 2008 is a huge, structured Ornellaia endowed with massive structure….

Northern Rhône: 2016 and 2017 Reds (Sep 2019)

Saturated purple. Hugely perfumed aromas of dark berry preserves, incense, potpourri, smoky bacon and spicecake. Cola, olive and cracked pepper flourishes build with air. Youthfully and broad in the mouth, offering deeply concentrated, sharply defined black/blue fruit, spicecake, vanilla and violet pastille flavors that are brightened by a smoky mineral accent. Chewy and appealingly sweet…

A Janus with Soul: Figeac 1943–2016 (Dec 2021)

Having tasted the 2007 Figeac a few times, I was intrigued how this bottle would show. The nose does not possess the intensity of the 2008. The Cabernet Franc and Sauvignon impart tobacco scents, autumn leaves and a touch of ash. You kind of wish there was more fruit. The palate is slightly better since…

2007, 2006 and 2005 Bordeaux (May 2008)

Good medium ruby. Ripe black cherry and licorice aromas. Moderately sweet and rich, with dark fruit and licorice flavors framed by spicy oak. The persistent, firm finish features a note of bitter chocolate. Very typical Figeac, hinting at cabernet but showing a pliant texture in the style of the year.

Ten Years On: Burgundy 2013 (Oct 2023)

The 2013 Puligny-Montrachet Clos de la Garenne 1er Cru has a delineated and vibrant bouquet with perfumed linden, orange zest and lychee scents. The palate is well balanced with fine acidity, fresh on the entry with decent weight and a vivid grapefruit and lychee-tinged finish. This is a very capable Puligny that is worth seeking…