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The Barossa: An Ascent to Higher Quality (Dec 2021)

Opaque ruby. Powerful blackcurrant, cherry, pipe tobacco, potpourri and woodsmoke qualities on the assertively perfumed nose. Fleshy and expansive in the mouth, offering concentrated black and blue fruit flavors and notes of candied licorice, succulent herbs and vanilla that build in the glass. Gains energy with air and finishes on a bitter cherry note, with…

La Lumière Noire: 2019 Burgundy – Côte de Nuits (Dec 2020)

From Vougeraie’s two plots, the 2019 Musigny Grand Cru was sorted with Mozart’s Greatest Hits playing in the background (not joking) and includes 100% whole bunch. The exquisite bouquet of beautifully defined mineral-driven red and black fruit does this noble vineyard justice. The palate is medium-bodied with lithe tannins, good grip and depth. Quite sweet…

Cristal – The 1980s…A Decade of Change (Dec 2018)

One of my all time favorites, the 1982 Cristal is magnificent. Fresh, nuanced and exceptionally beautiful, the 1982 remains one of the all-time great Cristals. Apricot, almond and chamomile nuances suggest the 1982 is just starting to turn the corner into its plateau of maturity. This bottle lacks a bit of excitement, but, then again,…

A Century of Bordeaux: The Twos (Sep 2022)

The 2002 Lafite-Rothschild is surprisingly dark in colour. It also has a surprisingly concentrated bouquet with blackberry, sous-bois and brine. Hints of steaming cups of espresso percolate through with time. The palate is medium-bodied with a little chewiness on the entry. Quite briny and saline, a little rustic in terms of tannic profile and perhaps…

The Annual Red Bordeaux Report (May 2005)

Bright, dark ruby-red. Subdued but pure aromas of currant, plum, minerals, graphite, and sexy, coconutty oak; showed a floral note with aeration. Extremely suave, fine-grained and concentrated, with a strong spine of acidity. Finishes firmly tannic, subtle and very long. This should develop slowly.

Looking Backward/Looking Forward: 2000 vs 2001 Bordeaux (Sep 2021)

The 2001 Léoville Las Cases is a vintage I’ve encountered many times. Now at two decades old, it has a generous nose with those black plums still in situ, along with graphite and cedar; this bottle is a little more backward, probably due to the provenance. The palate is medium-bodied with sappy red fruit, white…