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White Truffles, Barolo & Barbaresco (Nov 2014)

Mauro Mascarello’s 2008 Barolo Monprivato is a much more lifted and translucent wine than the 2006 Le Vigne. A wine that needs considerable air, the 2008 only starts to blossom with a few hours in the glass. Monprivato is often quirky, but the 2008 is a real moving target. Just this week alone I have…

Barolo and Barbaresco (Nov 2013)

Good medium red. Ineffable soil-driven aromas of strawberry, dried flowers, rust, mocha and pungent minerality. Juicy and highly complex, offering saline, savory flavors of strawberry, minerals and underbrush. This is about white soil perfume and subtlety, not weight but there’s terrific intensity nevertheless. Finishes suave and vibrant, with uncanny subtle length. Built for a long…

Barbaresco’s Soaring 2020s & 2021s (Oct 2023)

The 2021 Alteni di Brassica is a gorgeous, steely white endowed with tons of varietal character. This is the first vintage that includes fruit from the Gaja family’s new vineyards in Alta Langa. Lemon peel, sage, mint, dried herbs, chamomile and a touch of tropical fruit linger on the bright, saline finish.

The Many Faces of McLaren Vale (Feb 2023)

The dense and ripe 2020 Grenache Old McDonald comes from 78-year-old vines in Blewitt Springs. It delivers a brooding core of coal dust, aged meat, peppery spice and mulberry fruits with an excellent volume of fruit. A firm, tannin core drives a long, strong finish. Still a little edgy, this wine needs just a couple…

Chianti Classico: More Than Meets The Eye (Sep 2020)

The 2016 Anfiteatro, the estate’s top Sangiovese, is another wine that is going to need a number of years to be at its best. Wild, savory and explosive in the glass, the 2016 possesses tremendous depth and pure, unbridled power. Sangiovese is rarely this wild, this expressive and this full of personality. Readers just have…

Chianti Classico: More Than Meets The Eye (Sep 2020)

The 2016 Anfiteatro, the estate’s top Sangiovese, is another wine that is going to need a number of years to be at its best. Wild, savory and explosive in the glass, the 2016 possesses tremendous depth and pure, unbridled power. Sangiovese is rarely this wild, this expressive and this full of personality. Readers just have…