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Vintage Seeks Home: Bordeaux 2017 In Bottle (Jan 2020)

The 2017 Noaillac has a well defined bouquet but it feels more backward than its peers and requires encouragement from the glass. The palate is medium-bodied with edgy tannins, pure black fruit laced with graphite and cedar, leading to a finely proportioned and fresh finish with just the right amount of sapidity. Very fine.

2014 Chianti Classico: Better Late Than Never (Oct 2016)

The 2012 Balifico, Volpaia’s Sangiovese/Cabernet Sauvignon blend, is terrific. Dark cherry, plum, graphite, herbs, mint and lavender all flesh out in the glass. The Cabernet Sauvignon is quite dominant in the wine’s personality. Harmonious and impeccably balanced, the Balifico is another gorgeous, highly expressive wine from Volpaia. The interplay of Sangiovese and Cabernet works especially…

The Best New Wines From Spain (Sep 2005)

(from the estate’s best grapes; went through its malolactic fermentation in barrel) Full red-ruby. More minerally and floral and much less funky on the nose than the regular bottling, with brighter aromas of raspberry, redcurrant and sexy oak; reminded me of Barbaresco. Very suave and pure in the mouth, with dark fruit and floral flavors…

Northern Rhône: Where Diversity Ignites the Senses (Mar 2024)

The 2021 Crozes-Hermitage Domaine de Thalabert uses grapes from up to 60-year-old vines. It offers up slightly dusty red fruits paired with reductive characteristics. Although well-balanced and quite refreshing, the fairly low flavor concentration and abrupt finish prevent this 2021 from meriting a higher score.

Now, For My Latest Trick: Burgundy 2022 (Jan 2024)

The 2022 Clos de Vougeot Grand Cru has some of the most satisfying aromatics from Lamarche this year: a blend of black and red berry fruit, forest floor, white flowers and orange pith. There’s more presence here. The medium-bodied palate has a supple entry and a fine bead of acidity, elegant in style with good…

Now, For My Latest Trick: Burgundy 2022 (Jan 2024)

The 2022 Charmes-Chambertin Grand Cru is aged entirely in new oak. The very delineated bouquet needs a couple of swirls before it releases scents of white-tipped strawberry, raspberry, wet limestone, and hints of pressed flower. The palate is medium-bodied with a sweet, slightly candied entry, touches of orange zest and white pepper infusing the vivid…