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2005 Bordeaux: Here and Now (Apr 2021)

The 2005 Pavie Macquin opens with a burst of sweet red cherry/red plum fruit. Cedar, sweet pipe tobacco, mint, spicecake and dried flowers add layers of nuance. Even with all of its luscious fruit, the tannins remain pretty imposing. The 2005 needs a good bit of aeration to be at its best. I don’t find…

2007 and 2006 White Burgundies (Sep 2008)

(bottled a month before my visit) Captivating aromas of peach, flowers, honey and truffle. Big, rich, broad and mouthfilling, with a mineral component giving the wine lift and restraint. Not a weighty style but quite solid in the middle. Perhaps best today on the stony, palate-staining aftertaste. I’d give this one five years.

2011 Bordeaux from the Bottle (Jul 2014)

Vivid ruby. Very ripe scents of dark plum, graphite and leather and a strong note of underbrush on the initially reduced nose. Fleshy and smooth on entry, showing hefty, slightly warm, ripe dark fruit and licorice flavors, but turns austere on the long back end, finishing with tight tannins and a metallic edge. Really not…

The Comedown: Bordeaux 2011 Ten-Years-On (Apr 2022)

The 2011 Pontet Canet has a well-defined bouquet with brambly red fruit, tar and tobacco, classic in style, maybe just missing a little flair? The palate is sweet and rounded in texture, quite extractive with mulberry and gamey notes, fairly bretty towards the almost Rhône-like finish. This is difficult to fathom out, not an unenjoyable…

Bordeaux 2009: The Best Ever? (May 2010)

(a blend of 75% cabernet sauvignon and 25% merlot; pH 3.69; 60% new oak) Very deep purple. Fresh cabernet sauvignon-dominated nose shows floral, cassis and graphite aromas. Also vibrant on entry, with ripe, soft black fruit and mineral flavors that resonate through the smooth finish. This very well-made wine shows much more complexity, depth and…

2007, 2006 and 2005 Bordeaux (May 2008)

Bright ruby-red. Superripe, perfumed nose dominated by griotte cherry, raspberry and cocoa. Lush, smooth and impressively concentrated, with enough acidity and minerality to leaven the wine’s almost port-like ripeness (the pH here, always low, is barely 3.55 in 2005, according to Nicolas Thienpont). Very deep flavors of sweet cherry and dark berries carry through on…