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Enticingly Fallible: Bordeaux 2021 En Primeur (May 2022)

The 2021 Pétrus was picked from September 30 until October 9 and aged in the usual 50% new oak. It has a completely different aromatic profile compared to the previous vintages, a return to the Petrus that I know at this stage. It made me think of the 2008, possibly the 2014: cool and linear,…

2021 Bordeaux En Primeur: Back to Classicism (May 2022)

The 2021 Petrus is terrific. Elegant, refined and aromatically present, the 2021 is a Petrus built on linear energy and persistence more than volume. Crushed red berry fruit, blood orange, cinnamon and sweet floral accents are all finely knit together, framed by discreet oak (50% new) and vibrant saline underpinnings that lend energy. Medium in…

Valpolicella & Soave: The Times, They Are A Changin’ (Feb 2021)

The 2011 Alzero Cabernet is a bit backward today, displaying mocha-infused black and red currants offset by hints of sour citrus and animal musk, plus a dusty floral and incense component that is not quite ready to come into the foreground. It’s velvety in feel yet medium in body, showing tart wild berries and exotic…

Now, For My Latest Trick: Burgundy 2022 (Jan 2024)

The 2021 Puligny-Montrachet Clavoillon 1er Cru has a very fine bouquet with dew-speckled green apples, petrichor and lime gradually unfolding in the glass. The palate is well-balanced with an almost piercing line of acidity, yet it remains very well-balanced with ample weight on the sapid finish. Very fine.

The 2009 Clarets (Jul 2012)

Deep purple-ruby. Pungent floral and spice notes enliven complex aromas of dark plum, cocoa and minerals. Large-scaled and juicy, with lively acidity giving sharp definition to the uncommonly deep, pure flavors of black fruits, forest floor and dark spices. The impressively ripe, powerful finish features youthfully chewy tannins and outstanding persistence. This big boy will…

Survive Us All: Latour 1858-2018 (Feb 2024)

The 2009 Latour has an open and generous bouquet: a mixture of red and black fruit and touches of graphite and loam. This vintage displays a light marine/brine influence. The palate is medium-bodied with supple tannins, a fine bead of acidity, a firm grip and superb balance. This is very focused, with impressive salinity on…