Archives: Product Reviews

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Bordeaux 2009: The Best Ever? (May 2010)

(a 91/9 blend of cabernet sauvignon and merlot; 13.7% alcohol; 87 IPT; roughly 38% of the total crop) Purple ruby. Flamboyant aromas of red cherry, cassis, graphite and cedar soar from the glass. Then very dense, supple and smooth, with a noble texture and great breadth to its red cherry, blackcurrant, spicy plum, ink and…

A Test Of Greatness: 2009 Bordeaux Ten Years On (March 2019)

The 2009 Latour is very classic in style with black fruit, undergrowth, cedar, graphite and smoke, although I find at the moment, the 2009 Mouton-Rothschild has a tad more complexity. The palate is medium-bodied with supple tannin, a fine line of acidity, linear and focused, more controlled than Mouton-Rothschild but determined to exert its own…

A Test Of Greatness: 2009 Bordeaux Ten Years On (March 2019)

The 2009 Latour is endowed with a simply magnificent nose with intense blackberry and cassis fruit laced with minerals and graphite, extremely focused to the point of overwhelming the sense. Wow. The palate is medium-bodied with filigree tannin, multilayered black fruit infused with crushed stone and a hint of white pepper, though it clams up…

Roederer Cristal Full Circle: 1993-2015 (Dec 2023)

The 1999 Cristal is very pretty. It’s a rare Cristal vintage with a bit more Chardonnay than the norm. Apricot, spice, ginger, hazelnut and exotic tropical fruits all open with some aeration. The 1999 shows good depth and density, but it is hard to get past some of the angular contours that remain. Dosage is…

2001 and 2000 White Burgundies (Sep 2002)

Subdued aromas of pear, citrus skin and spicy oak. Quite tightly wrapped, even a bit lean today, with a lemony flavor lifted by a strong floral element. Penetrating and closed; in a distinctly masculine style. Solidly structured and very long, with real grand cru reserve. Needs six to eight years of bottle aging.

2004 and 2003 Red Burgundies (Mar 2006)

($1029) Bright red-ruby. Wonderfully complex nose melds raspberry, rose petal, truffley underbrush and exotic spices. Then almost shockingly fresh in the mouth, with penetrating and rather delicate flavors of red berries and flowers. Still quite tightly wound but already offers compelling inner-mouth perfume. Finishes with building tannins and outstanding verve.