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Servants of the Seasons: Burgundy 2021 (Jan 2023)

The 2021 Vosne-Romanée Aux Brûlées 1er Cru has a very well defined nose with vivid dark cherry and raspberry fruit, touches of crushed stone and rose petals. Wonderful focus. The palate is medium-bodied with a bit of oak to be subsumed on the entry. Good fruit concentration considering the growing season, quite savoury towards the…

La Lumière Noire: 2019 Burgundy – Côte de Nuits (Dec 2020)

The 2019 La Grande Rue Grand Cru is aromatically tailored in a similar vein to the domaine’s other Grand Crus: ethereal and floral in style with rose-petal-infused red fruit, the quintessential Pinoté, and hints of crushed rock developing with time. The palate is medium-bodied with lithe tannins, cohesive and poised, gaining weight with aeration toward…

La Lumière Noire: 2019 Burgundy – Côte de Beaune (Dec 2020)

The 2019 Volnay Les Fremiets 1er Cru sees 20% new oak. It has a very harmonious bouquet with pure cranberry and raspberry fruit, though maybe not the most complex example that I encountered from this vineyard. The palate is medium-bodied with fine grip, quite structured, a hint of spice and balsamic behind the raspberry and…

Herding Cats: Burgfest 2020 – The Reds (Oct 2024)

The 2020 Chambolle-Musigny Les Charmes 1er Cru has the most exotic nose in the flight, touches of prune tincturing the dark cherries, more opulence and cassis scents emerging with aeration. The palate is luscious from the start, with layers of ripe black cherries, cassis, blood orange and hints of curry powder. Powerful and attention-seeking, hedonistic…

Herding Cats: Burgfest 2020 – The Reds (Oct 2024)

The 2020 Bonnes-Mares Grand Cru has a slightly tertiary nose. Dark berry fruit with touches of peat and loam open nicely in the glass. Maybe it just misses a little pedigree. The palate is medium-bodied with gritty tannins. Fresh acidity, almost citric, with a little brittleness towards the finish. It doesn’t quite “flow” like the…

Back to Burgfest: 2017 Reds – Blind (Jan 2022)

The 2017 Gevrey-Chambertin Clos Saint-Jacques Vieilles Vignes 1er Cru has a well-defined bouquet of mixed red and black fruit and a faint touch of tomato vine. It becomes more floral with aeration. The palate has fine structure, and there’s some clever stem addition apparent here, lending this Clos Saint-Jacques a subtle leafy character. Focused with…