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La Lumière Noire: 2019 Burgundy – Côte de Beaune (Dec 2020)

The 2019 Puligny-Montrachet Les Folatières 1er Cru has a cool as a cucumber nose, Zen-like, opening reluctantly to reveal scents of wet limestone, flint and a touch of chalk. The palate is well balanced with a fine bead of acidity, harmonious and focused with orange zest towards the effervescent finish that lingers in the mouth….

Vinous Table: Arpège, Paris, France (Nov 2018)

Last but not least, the still much-too-young 2012 Jean-Frédéric Mugnier Nuit-Saint-Georges Clos de la Maréchale, from one of my favorite Burgundy producers, proves just the right match for the rack of pork, offering flinty and smoky nuances to the sweet red and black cherry fruit. Made from atypically low yields due to a summer hailstorm,…

The 2013 & 2012 Red Burgundies (Apr 2015)

The 2012 Nuits St. Georges Clos de la Maréchale marks a pretty significant stylistic shift in this tasting, but, then again, the Clos de la Maréchale suffered through a brutal hailstorm in July that lowered the crop dramatically. A core of dark red/black stone fruits, spices, mocha and leather opens up nicely, but the effect…

The 2012 Red Burgundies from Bottle (Mar 2015)

(the crop level here was freakishly low in 2012 owing to a hailstorm on July 4): Good deep red. Very dark, medicinal aromas of blackberry, blueberry, licorice and black pepper. Broad and fine-grained but powerful and youthfully closed, with its acids and tannins currently clashing on the back. In a distinctly tough style, finishing with…

The 2022 Champagne New Releases (May 2022)

The 2015 Brut Grand Millésime is terrific. Bright and intensely floral, the 2015 bristles with all the energy that is such a signature of the Gosset house style. White flowers, mint and crushed flowers open first. If I have a critique of Gosset is that the wines can be a bit austere. That is certainly…

Magic and Madness: Climens 1912-2020 (Aug 2022)

The 2009 Climens is much more vibrant on the nose than the 2010 with lovely dried honey, quince, saffron and light chamomile aromas. It blossoms in the glass and gains intensity with each swirl. The palate is very well balanced with a touch of marmalade on the entry, quite tensile from start to finish with…