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1997, 1996 and 1995 Bordeaux (May 1998)

Good deep ruby-red. Distinctive, oak-dominated aromas of crushed blackberry, cedar, tar and meat; distinctly Rioja-like. Then dry, penetrating and uncompromising, with strong berry flavor and somewhat tart-edged acidity. A rather skinny St. Julien that may put on weight in bottle. Finishes with dusty tannins and very good length. Seems far crisper than an early sample…

Lower Your Sails Again: Beychevelle 1905-2015 (Jan 2025)

The 1995 Beychevelle has never been one of my favorite vintages, inferior to the 2005 or 2015 that I juxtaposed at the table. Dark berry fruit, quite ferrous, is evidence of a little Brettanomyces. The palate is powerful and muscular, which is not really the Beychevelle style, and quite spicy towards the finish. Will it…

2008 and 2007 Rhone Valley Wines (Jan 2010)

Deep ruby. Powerful, pungent aromas of kirsch, dark berries, smoky herbs and spicecake, with notes of black olive and tobacco coming on with air. Chewy, palate-staining dark fruit flavors are complicated by bitter chocolate, licorice and black cardamom. Acts like a 2005 today, with serious structure but also superb depth of powerful, densely packed fruit….

Châteauneuf-du-Pape 2022: Bring It On (Jun 2024)

The vibrant 2007 Châteauneuf-du-Pape bursts with pronounced spice box, menthol, tobacco, black plum, iodine, licorice, leather and crushed violets. Offering a vertical sensation on the full-bodied palate, the 2007 captures the ripeness and concentration of the vintage without veering into jamminess. The savory finish is energetic and long-lasting. This is a stunning Clos des Papes…

2010 Red Burgundies (Jan 2012)

(tasted from tank; this was previously in 50% new oak): Deep red. Ripe aromas of dark raspberry, bitter chocolate and espresso. Flavors of crushed dark berries and tart cranberry are a bit hardened on the back end by slightly tough, oak-driven tannins. Not easy to taste today.

Bordeaux’s Radiant 2015s (Apr 2016)

The 2015 Gazin is dark, fleshy and wonderfully expressive. Mocha, bittersweet chocolate and a host of ripe dark fruit, along with the wine’s contours, give the 2015 much of its sumptuous personality. This is a decidedly plush, extracted style, but all the elements are nicely balanced throughout.