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Bordeaux 2018: Not Back in Black (Mar 2021)

The 2018 Pavillon de Léoville-Poyferré opens with a gorgeous burst of ripe dark fruit, spice and tobacco. On the palate, though, the tannins are a touch grainy and harsh as the wine narrows through to a finish that is aggressive and attenuated. I would prefer to drink the 2018 sooner rather than later, as its…

Veneto: The Land of Opportunity (Mar 2023)

There’s a woodsy character to the 2016 Amarone della Valpolicella Riserva Monte Olmi that perfectly inserts itself among the aromas of steeped plum, sage, cedar shavings and cocoa. This envelopes the palate with opulent silky textures, as a core of juicy acidity adds an attractive sweetness to the tart wild berry fruits and exotic spices…

2014 Red Burgundies: Delicious Terroir-Driven Midweights (Mar 2017)

(vinified entirely with whole clusters; 55% new oak): Medium red, not particularly dark at the rim. Slightly carnal aromas of raspberry, cherry, mocha, spices and sexy oak. Boasts lovely sweetness and breadth but also terrific delicacy and definition to the fine-grained flavors of raspberry, spices, minerals and flowers. Showing more personality today than the Clos…

2000 Vintage Ports (Jan 2003)

Bright medium ruby. Vibrant aromas of blueberry, graphite and violet. Suave, sweet and very firmly built; still a bit youthfuly clenched but concentrated, intensely fruity and stylish. This is structured to develop slowly in bottle. Seemed to grow longer as it opened in the glass. Like a mini-Taylor.

1997, 1996 and 1995 Bordeaux (May 1998)

Reticent nose combines currant, nuts, and shoe polish. More tightly wrapped than the Armailhac, but also larger and more powerfully structured. Seems a bit more rustic than the ’96 Clerc-Milon. Finishes with very good length and tongue-coating tannins.

1997, 1996 and 1995 Bordeaux (May 1998)

Ruby-red, not quite as deep as the ’96. Exotic, sweet aromas of currant, lead pencil, spice and woodsmoke. A huge wine that conveys a sense of sheer power, but not quite as delineated or stylish as the ’96. This really explodes on the aftertaste, but the ’96 is more subtle. Clearly first-growth size, but less…