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Napa Valley’s 2022 & 2023 Cabernet Sauvignons (Dec 2024)

The 2022 Cabernet Sauvignon M. Étain is gorgeous. Plump, juicy and inviting, the 2022 is an absolute joy. It might not quite have the depth or intensity of the very best years, but it comes very, very close. More than anything else, the wine’s balance is impressive. A burst of dark red cherry, pomegranate, spice,…

2001 and 2000 Rhone Valley Wines (Jan 2003)

(this is just under 14% alcohol with about 130 grams per liter of residual sugar) Orange-gold color, with a reddish tinge. High-toned, carnal aromas of quince jam, orange peel, toffee and raisiny dried fruits; shows a strong Tokaji-like aspect. Superconcentrated and sweet but not particularly glyceral, with firm acids giving the wine an uncanny lightness….

Marking Milestones with Moulin Touchais (Apr 2021)

Nineteen nighty six wasn’t a legendary vintage unlike the season that would follow. The 1996 Moulin Touchais Coteaux du Layon, a product of a fairly warm season, it is not overtly warm in its fruit profile with some lightly botrytised spice character, plus a rose-like scent, apricots and almonds. With just 76g/L of residual sugar…

2011 Red Burgundies (Mar 2014)

(vinified with 60% whole clusters): Good deep red. Complex aromas of brambly raspberry, dark cherry, menthol, licorice, leather and brown spices, plus an element of chocolatey torrefaction. Juicy and tightly wound, with a tight core of spice and good rocky tension. Saline and savory in a positive way. Nicely balanced and not at all hard,…

2011 Red Burgundy: Three Sides of a Coin (Mar 2014)

The best elements of the vintage come together in the 2011 Chambolle-Musigny Les Feusselottes. Expressive and layered, the 2011 is a bit richer than normal, which makes it incredibly appealing young. This is a relatively large-scaled Feusselottes with tons of fruit and exquisite perfume, all backed up by serious structure. Tremblay picked this fruit in…

Napa Valley: The Frantic 2020s & Stunning 2021s (Feb 2023)

The 2020 Cabernet Sauvignon Lyndenhurst offers only modest depth and concentration, but its balance is commendable, given the challenges of the year. Ripe dark fruit, chocolate and spice make a good first impression, but there’s not much of a mid-palate or finish to speak of. The blend is 76% Cabernet Sauvignon, 10% Cabernet Franc, 9%…