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Squares & Circles: Bordeaux ‘10 At Ten (Apr 2020)

The 2010 Capbern Gasqueton is a wine that I never tasted en primeur. It has a very intense bouquet with blackberry, tobacco, dried blood and loamy aromas that vie for attention, all served up with impressive delineation. The palate is medium-bodied with grippy tannins, a lovely rondeur here that counterbalances the structure of the vintage….

Myth Over Matter: Mature Burgundy 1920-2019 (Mar 2023)

The 1991 Chambertin Grand Cru is a vintage that I have not tasted for several years (it was not part of last year’s epic vertical). I have never been as taken with this vintage as the 1993. With brambly red fruit, leather and sous-bois on the nose, it is beautifully defined, if not blessed with…

Domaine Armand Rousseau: Chambertin 1988 – 2002 (Aug 2017)

One of the highlights in this vertical, the 1991 Chambertin is simply stratospheric. Dense and powerful, with a huge center of fruit and exceptional balance, the 1991 is wonderfully complete from start to finish. The flavors are shrouded in darkness, and yet there is more than enough aromatic lift, sweetness and freshness to balance its…

Southwold: 2016 Bordeaux Blind (Aug 2020)

The 2016 Batailley has an attractive, meaty bouquet with more red fruit than black, unlike many of its peers. With aeration it appears to gain more floral notes and lift. The palate is medium-bodied with fine tannins, linear and focused, offering pencil lead, cedar and light spicy notes toward the conservative, controlled finish. A mocha-tinged…

Vinous Icons: Roederer – Four Decades of Cristal & Cristal Rosé (Nov 2024)

The 1988 Cristal Rosé might be even better than the 1990 Cristal served alongside it. I admire its ability to transmit concentration and depth while remaining light on its feet. Blood orange, mint, white pepper, tangerine and crushed rocks all saturate the palate. Both wines are simply exceptional. They are also sublime with the food,…

A Century of…Fives (Jun 2025)

The 1985 Mouton Rothschild has a strong peppermint/eucalyptus-scented nose that, in this case, occludes the terroir and fruit profile. Perhaps this might have dissipated with longer aeration. The palate is sweeter than the accompanying 1985 Latour, plush and opulent in the style of the 1982, but without the same grandeur or complexity when that vintage…