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The 2013 Red Burgundies: Fascinating and Challenging (Mar 2016)

(true Charmes): Good medium red. Sexy, soil-inflected perfume of cherry, redcurrant, mocha, black pepper, underbrush, cinnamon and dried flowers. Sweet and plush on the palate but with a firm spine of acidity giving shape and thrust to the intense flavors of red fruits, sous-bois and dried flowers. Classic Charmes, offering a lovely balance of salinity…

Through the Other Side: Burgundy 2016 in Bottle (Oct 2019)

The 2016 Nuits Saint-Georges Aux Cras 1er Cru has a full-throttle, meaty, slightly savory bouquet where I find the imprimatur of the oak coming across strongly at the moment. Hopefully bottle age will address that. The palate is medium-bodied with smooth rounded tannins that lend this Nuits Saint-Georges a cashmere texture and a quite sumptuous,…

Red Burgundy ’16 & ’15: Superb Vintages, Different Styles (Jan 2018)

(entirely destemmed): Bright ruby-red. Pungent aromas of blackberry and crushed rock are accented by a violet topnote. Dense, juicy and pure if a bit youthfully folded in on itself. A distinctly rocky, austere style compared to the Suchots, with its dark berry flavors complicated by a note of licorice. Not quite dry but showing no…

Dance the Quickstep: Burgundy 2020 (Dec 2021)

The 2020 Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru came from barrel on its lees. This has a very perfumed bouquet with brioche and citrus peel scents, just a touch of praline emerging with time. The palate is very well balanced with a fine thread of acidity, though here, I am just seeking a little more weight and umami…

2012 Red Burgundy: Against All Odds (Jan 2014)

The 2012 Chambertin-Clos de Bèze emerges from a parcel planted in 1920, which are the domaine’s oldest vines. Nicely layered in the glass, the 2012 presents sweet black cherries, violets, licorice, mint and spices. This is a relatively delicate, mid-weight Bèze with good near-term appeal, but less of the structure and size that is typical…

Burgundy Focus 1: Duroché’s Clos de Bèze Grand Cru 1988-2020 (Apr 2023)

The 2012 Chambertin-Clos de Bèze Grand Cru has a mineral-driven, tensile bouquet that gains clarity with aeration. There is outstanding focus with vibrant redcurrant and raspberry scents, taut and energetic. The palate is medium-bodied with disarming poise and precision. It’s vibrant and edgy with (again) so much more energy on its effervescent finish. Superb. Drinking…