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2017 Burgundy: A Modern Classic (Jan 2019)

The 2017 Chambertin Clos-de-Bèze Grand Cru has a sensual and pure bouquet with red cherries, redcurrant jus, crushed stone and pressed rose petals that gradually unfurls in the glass and ends up being more expressive than the Latricières-Chambertin. The palate is medium-bodied with supple tannin, fleshy and perhaps the most dense of Duroché’s 2017s, real…

2018 Burgundy: Confounded Expectations (Jan 2020)

The 2017 Puligny-Montrachet Les Enseigneres comes from a single hectare of vines planted in the 1950s. I often feel their Puligny is overlooked simply for the crime of not being "Meursault." The bouquet is very precise and focused, offering Golden Delicious apple, honeysuckle and light fennel scents, plus faint orange blossom aromas. The palate is…

1999, 1998 and 1997 Bordeaux (May 2000)

Medium ruby-red. Aromas of currant, blueberry, menthol, leather, cedar and mint. Sweet, soft and silky; this will be approachable early. Finishes with substantial but ripe tannins. Like the Saint-Pierre, under the same ownership, this ’99 comes across as far sweeter and lusher than the rather ungiving, dry ’98.

Lower Your Sails (Or Breeches): Beychevelle 1929-2019 (Mar 2023)

The 1999 Beychevelle has a mature nose with a touch more freshness and, in my mind, fewer brettanomyces than the 1997, although there is still a bit of leather coming through. The palate is medium-bodied with grainy tannins, rustic compared to recent vintage with a slightly bitter finish. This 1999 is not going to go…

A Century of Bordeaux: The Nines (Sep 2019)

The 1999 Beychevelle is a vintage that I have not encountered for some time. It has a simple nose of brambly red fruit, leather and the espresso note that I observed in previous vintages. The palate is medium-bodied with rustic tannin. This feels a little hard and pinched in the mouth, and the rustic, ferrous…

2001, 2000 and 1999 Bordeaux (May 2002)

Red-ruby. Currant, cedar, smoke, game and animal fur on the nose, along with an herbaceous coolness. On the lean side but not hard. Offers a touch of sweetness and comes across as softer than the young 2001, with lower acidity. Tannins are somewhat dry.