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2014 Red Burgundies: Delicious Terroir-Driven Midweights (Mar 2017)

Good dark red. Wild, highly complex nose combines dried rose, minerals, smoked meat, tobacco and a note of caramel. Plush and smooth yet with terrific flavor definition and a light touch to its flavors of red berries, spices and dried flowers. Offers outstanding breadth and restrained sweetness, with a late note of tart red berries…

Burgundy With A Bit of Age: 2000-2014 (May 2019)

The 2013 Clos de Vougeot Grand Cru seems to have closed down since I last tasted it – broody and introverted, certainly surpassed by Grivot’s two excellent Nuits Saint-Georges tasted alongside. The palate is medium-bodied, grippy and backward with a sullen finish. I have never been keen on this particular wine and that has not…

The 2013 Red Burgundies: Fascinating and Challenging (Mar 2016)

Bright red. Aromas of redcurrant, raspberry, red licorice, smoke and flowers. Suave and fine-grained; comes across as suppler than the 2014. Delivers lovely fruit sweetness but also serious medicinal reserve; will this shut down in bottle? Turned more tannic with air and showed its firm spine. This very fresh Clos Vougeot will need at least…

Bordeaux 2010: All That Glitters… (May 2011)

(a 69/31 blend of cabernet sauvignon and merlot; 72 IPT; 3.81 pH; 13.7% alcohol) Deep, bright ruby-purple. Classic highly perfumed aromas of blackcurrant, violet, crushed stone and gunflint. Bright, clean and concentrated but currently backward, with densely packed black fruit and mineral flavors displaying a wonderfully precise, penetrating quality. Finishes long and subtle, with an…

Cellar Favorite: The Fives at Château d’Issan (Mar 2021)

The 2010 Château d’Issan has a very intense bouquet with layers of black fruit interlaced with wild hedgerow, touches of iodine and brine that I noticed on the same bottle a couple of years ago. This still requires a couple of years (or 2-3 hours of decanting) before serving. The palate is much more refined…

The 2010 Clarets: A Modern Classic (Jul 2013)

Bright medium ruby. Wild, musky aromas of black raspberry, cassis, cedar, smoke, leather, game and bitter chocolate. Dense, chewy and dry, with good peppery lift to the cherry skin and bitter chocolate flavors. Finishes with surprisingly fine-grained tannins and a juicy quality. This dry, classic claret needs time in bottle to gain flesh and sweetness….