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Bordeaux 2011: Tales of Tannins and Terroir (May 2012)

Ruby red. Enticing aromas of ripe plum, cassis and chocolatey torrefaction. Then rather tight and austere in the mouth but still suave and smooth, with moderately ripe plum and spicy blackberry flavors. The moderately persistent finish shows a touch of greenness.

The Cat’s Whiskers: Bordeaux 1961 (Oct 2019)

The 1961 Latour is served blind against the Palmer and it comes off second best on this occasion. But that should not take anything away from a quite stupendous Pauillac. Intense black fruit laced with graphite and crushed stone, it is deeply impressive but perhaps lacks a warm personality compared to the Margaux. The palate…

1982 Bordeaux, 20 Years On (Jul 2002)

Full red, with a hint of amber; I’ve had bottles of this that are still ruby. Ineffable aromas of game, smoky oak, herbs and vanilla, with a distinctly wild quality. Extremely powerful and structured, with bracing acidity giving it great grip and buns of steel. Still very tight and young, but less thick than the…

Vinous Table: Trivet, London, UK (Aug 2021)

There was only one way to finish: by switching over to Sauternes for the 2007 d’Yquem. This is a vintage I have tasted several times. Lucid amber in color, it has a reticent nose at first, though it blossoms with aeration to reveal captivating aromas of mirabelle, dried honey and beeswax. A subtle adhesive scent…

2007 and 2005 Sauternes and Barsacs (Jul 2008)

(14% alcohol with 140 g/l r.s.; 70% semillon and 30% sauvignon blanc) Pale gold. Knockout nose of mirabelle, pineapple, spices and honey. Dense and thick but with racy acidity leavening the wine’s liqueur-like flavors of peach, apricot and pineapple and imbuing it with superb energy. With aeration, this showed captivating notes of vanilla, toast and…

2004 and 2003 Rhone Valley Wines (Jan 2006)

Deep red. Wilder, more earthy and more powerful on the nose than the Mouline, with aromas of bitter cherry, creme de mure, fruity dark chocolate, licorice candy, espresso and pungent violet. Dense and broad on the palate, the cherry compote and blackcurrant flavors complicated by dense, dark tones of coffee, high-octane chocolate and black truffle….