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Vintage Seeks Home: Bordeaux 2017 In Bottle (Jan 2020)

The 2017 Haut-Brion was bottled 10-18 June. It impressed from barrel and it continues to do so now incarcerated in glass. It has an irresistible bouquet with ebullient red berry fruit, sous-bois, graphite and oyster shell, perhaps one of the most Burgundy-like aromatics that I can recall in this First Growth. The palate is beautifully…

Bordeaux 2015 At Age Ten (Jun 2025)

The 2015 Pape Clément has a bright nose with finely delineated blackberry, cassis and light violet scents that unfold nicely with aeration. The palate is medium-bodied, harmonious and well balanced, with pliant tannins and a svelte, slightly peppery finish. The 2015 is lovely. Tasted blind at the 2015 Bordeaux Ten-Year-On tasting.

Bordeaux 2015 At Age Ten (Jun 2025)

The 2015 Pape Clément is one of my favorite vintages from this decade in an era when they were producing full-throttle wines that could sometimes overwhelm. But this has a lovely, high-toned bouquet, with plush red fruit -tinged with cigar smoke and graphite. The palate is medium-bodied, fleshy and savory in style. I might deduce…

Now, For My Latest Trick: Burgundy 2022 (Jan 2024)

The 2022 Clos Vougeot Grand Cru includes 50% whole bunches and matured in 50% new oak. The stems play an important part on the nose: mainly black fruit, loam, white pepper and bay leaf. There’s good complexity here. The palate is medium-bodied with fine tannins. Again, the whole bunches element is quite pronounced at the…

Servants of the Seasons: Burgundy 2021 (Jan 2023)

The 2021 Pommard Les Rugiens 1er Cru comprises seven barrels (one-year-old) with 20% whole bunches. The nose presents notes of brambly red fruit with loam and hints of rose petals and sage – there is fine complexity here. The palate is very refined, with ample vibrant red fruit and a judicious dab of white pepper….

On the Cusp of Evolution: Amarone and Valpolicella (Apr 2022)

The darkly alluring 2016 La Poja seduces with masses of plum sauce, macerated cherries and dark chocolate with lavender tones. Its silken textures wash across the palate with mineral-tinged dark red berries and savory spices, as sweet tannins collect toward the close. A saturation of primary tart fruit concentration lasts on the senses for well…