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Barbaresco 2016 & 2017 – A Tale of Two Vintages (Nov 2019)

The 2015 Barolo Sperss shows all of the darkness and muscle that are so typical of Serralunga. Black cherry, plum, licorice, incense, gravel, cured meats and scorched earth infuse this potent, backward wine with tremendous character. My impression is that the extraction and oak are all a bit more pushed here relative to the other…

Fairest of Them All: Cos d’Estournel 1928 – 2015 (Oct 2018)

The 1989 Cos d’Estournel is certainly showing more maturity on the rim compared to the 1990. Ten years ago I remember the aromatics being very attractive and yet, they appear to have faded in recent years with autumn leaf, bay leaf and cigar box aromas. The bouquet lacks vigor and charm. The palate is well…

A Century of Bordeaux: The Nines (Sep 2019)

The 1989 Cos d’Estournel has a deep garnet core with some bricking on the rim. On the nose, it shows exactly the same as before, offering a gorgeous mélange of mulberry, rust, fennel and light garrigue notes, very well defined and even a little rustic in style. The aromatics have aged better than the medium-bodied…

1982 Bordeaux, 20 Years On (Jul 2002)

Full medium ruby. High-pitched, perfumed aromas of dark berries, minerals and violet; very cabernet. Rich, dense and youthful; broad and beefy, with cassis, black cherry and bitter chocolate flavors. Finishes very sweet and long, with fine tannins spreading out impressively to coat the palate. A great showing. Drink now through 2015.

Rockeries in Living Rooms: 1988 vs. 1989 Bordeaux (Jul 2024)

The 1989 Léoville Las Cases has been variable over a dozen-plus bottles drunk over the years, although this is definitely one of the better examples. The floral bouquet is much more expressive and endearing, with mainly red fruit mixed with ferrous notes and a touch of mulch. Fine definition but I would say the aromatics…

Rockeries in Living Rooms: 1988 vs. 1989 Bordeaux (Jul 2024)

This bottle of 1989 Léoville Las Cases is the second encountered within four months and is easily the best showing. It has a beautiful bouquet with a touch of menthol on the nose, leaning towards Pauillac with its vivacious cassis fruit. There’s little of the ferrous note from the previous bottle. The palate is medium-bodied…