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Mád Idea: Royal Tokaji 1990-2013 (Jul 2019)

The 1990 Tokaji Betsek 5-Puttonyos has 140g/L residual sugar and 9.35g/L acidity. Its lucid burnished gold color shows a faint green-tinted rim. The nose offers scents of crème caramel, butterscotch and toffee; it is not intense and perhaps missing a little focus, yet still agreeable. The palate is powerful on the entry and very viscous…

Rockeries in Living Rooms: 1988 vs. 1989 Bordeaux (Jul 2024)

This bottle of 1989 Climens replicates the stunning showing at the château the previous year. Yellow plum and saffron soars on the electrifying nose, just breathtaking delineation and vibrancy. The palate is likewise brimming over with energy, very intense yet brilliantly poised with a purity on the finish that I feel that Climens rarely achieved…

Magic and Madness: Climens 1912-2020 (Aug 2022)

The 1989 Climens has an even more complex bouquet than the 1990 and perhaps the best bottle that I have encountered. Yellow plum, saffron, quince and a touch of Manuka honey soars on the nose. The palate is medium-bodied with a tangy, eucalyptus-tinged entry, very harmonious and long. Surfeit with energy, this is a fabulous…

A Century of Bordeaux: The Nines (Sep 2019)

The 1989 Climens retains its glorious bouquet of copious scents of dried honey, saffron, barley sugar and gingerbread – so vibrant and engaging. This feels as if it has more vim and vigor than the 1999 tasted alongside. The harmonious palate is full of life and mellifluous in texture, featuring quince and stewed apricot mixed…

Focus on Sauternes (Jul 1998)

Green-tinged straw color. Initially less expressive nose opened to show floral, herbal and vanillin notes as well as a pungent minerally quality. Very sweet but very suave, with fresh but perfectly integrated acidity serving to frame and intensify the superb, mineral-and-citric fruit. Can’t match the ’90 for pure size and power but the harmoniousness of…

Vinous Table: Charity Dinner to Benefit the Frankie Lemmon School (Mar 2014)

Beaucastel’s Châteauneuf-du-Pape Hommage a Jacques Perrin is one of my very favorite wines. Unfortunately I don’t get a chance to drink it all that often. Our magnum of 1990 is truly magnificent. A wine that takes over all the senses, the 1990 impresses for its layered personality and breathtaking fruit. In a word: stunning. The…