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Test of Endurance: Bordeaux 2014 Ten Years On (Mar 2024)

The 2014 Duhart-Milon has a refined bouquet with dark berry fruit, cedar and light graphite scents that gradually unfold in the glass. The palate is medium-bodied with sapid blackberry and bilberry notes. It’s estuarine in style with a stocky and yet charming finish. This is a quietly impressive Pauillac. Tasted blind at the Southwold 10-Year-On…

Bordeaux 2014: The Southwold Tasting (Mar 2018)

The 2014 Duhart-Milon is a wine that performs shockingly well, far better than I would have expected given its showing just after bottling. Here, it has a detailed, focused bouquet with graphite infused black fruit, smoke and cedar aromas. Quintessential Pauillac. The palate is medium-bodied with sappy black fruit attired with a subtle marine influence,…

2014 Bordeaux: A September Surprise (Feb 2017)

The 2014 Duhart-Milon is dark, powerful and sensual, largely because of the high %age of Merlot in this vintage. Black cherry, leather, smoke, licorice and mocha all run through the 2014. Even with all of its obvious up-front fruit, the wine needs time to settle down and shed some tannins. There is plenty here to…

Focus on Barolo and Barbaresco (Nov 2011)

(the first vintage of Gran Bussia made with what Giacomo Conterno described as the estate’s new philosophy on more serious green harvesting and longer skin contact; aged for four years in two 25-hectoliter barrels and slated to be released in 2012 with the 2008 crus): Medium red. Perfumed, high-toned aromas of redcurrant, licorice, marzipan, graphite,…

Barolo 2008: The Incredible Lightness of Being (Apr 2012)

The 2005 Barolo Riserva Granbussia is shaping up to be one of the great wines of the vintage. The bouquet is classic Barolo to the core. Pure rose petals, tar, licorice, orange peel and leather. The 2005 is a wine of contrasts. It is at once powerful yet delicate, rich yet weightless. In other words,…

Focus on Barolo and Barbaresco (Nov 2011)

(the first vintage of Gran Bussia made with what Giacomo Conterno described as the estate’s new philosophy on more serious green harvesting and longer skin contact; aged for four years in two 25-hectoliter barrels and slated to be released in 2012 with the 2008 crus): Medium red. Perfumed, high-toned aromas of redcurrant, licorice, marzipan, graphite,…