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Barolo 2008: The Incredible Lightness of Being (Apr 2012)

The 2005 Barolo Riserva Granbussia is shaping up to be one of the great wines of the vintage. The bouquet is classic Barolo to the core. Pure rose petals, tar, licorice, orange peel and leather. The 2005 is a wine of contrasts. It is at once powerful yet delicate, rich yet weightless. In other words,…

The Judgement of Clapham Junction (Mar 2022)

The 1992 Monte Bello from Ridge came in a magnum. Black plum and iodine, melted dark chocolate, cassis and peppermint on the complex nose, a scent of a Wellington boot emerging with aeration! The palate is beautifully balanced, still youthful and vibrant with almost pixelated fruit, star anis towards the persistent finish. Perhaps provenance and…

2004 and 2003 Red Burgundies (Mar 2006)

Good medium red. Sexy red berries, smoked meat, coffee, underbrush, truffle and spicy oak on the nose. Very ripe but initially tight, with good spine and a high pitch to its sappy red berry flavors. Slightly roasted for this cuvee but kept fresh by sound acidity. Very concentrated, long wine. Finishes with firm but very…

Veneto: A Constant State of Evolution (Feb 2024)

The 2016 Valpolicella Superiore Monte Lodoletta is intense, with a captivating bouquet that blends cedar shavings, savory herbs and balsamic spices with rum-soaked cherries, sweet lavender and dark chocolate. This sweeps across the palate with silken textures, delivering masses of tart red and black fruits along with hints of espresso bean. Crunchy mineral tones and…

Veneto: The Land of Opportunity (Mar 2023)

Taking in the 2017 Valpolicella Superiore Monte Lodoletta reminds me of all of the desserts, spices and confections experienced on Christmas day. An array of medicinal cherries, plum sauce, ginger cookies, cloves, cinnamon and dried roses captivate. There’s tremendous depth here, but it maintains fantastic freshness. This is wildly spicy and intense, yet deep, with…

Caught Somewhere in Time: Clos de Tart 1887-2016 (Feb 2019)

The 2012 Clos de Tart Grand Cru is definitely one of the finer contributions from winemaker Sylvain Pitiot during his reign. One parcel was picked on September 19, but the main picking was September 28 until October 1. The yield was a measly 14.3hl/ha, alcohol at 14.2°. It was also the first vintage entirely plowed…