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Vinous Table: The Dysart at Petersham, Richmond, UK (Sep 2024)

To finish, back on “home turf” with the 1989 Yquem. It is a vintage I have drunk many times in recent years: quince, apricots, honey and saffron burst forth on the nose with brilliant delineation. The palate is a little tauter than in previous bottles, with marmalade and quince to the fore and an energetic,…

Rockeries in Living Rooms: 1988 vs. 1989 Bordeaux (Jul 2024)

The 1989 Yquem is such an excellent Sauternes that just never lets you down. It has similar aromatics to the previous bottle a couple of years ago with saffron and quince. A little more marmalade comes through with aeration. There’s real energy and outstanding delineation here. The palate is well-balanced and takes time to meld…

Châteauneuf-du-Pape Reds: The Flamboyant 2014s and the Structured 2013s (Apr 2016)

Brilliant ruby. Smoky red berry and cherry scents show very good clarity and pick up a floral element with air. Supple, open-knit and juicy, conveying a suggestion of white pepper that sharpens pliant raspberry and cherry cola flavors. The spicy quality repeats on the smooth, expansive and persistent finish, which shows just hint of fine-grained,…

Intellect & Senses: Bordeaux With Time (Mar 2025)

The 1990 Petrus has a beautifully defined nose with potent red fruit aromas. To use a phrase employed in my previous note five years ago, this is “sensual and warm,” once again, that eucalyptus tincture identified prior to the wine being revealed. The palate is velvety in texture and impressive in depth, with a little…

2012 and 2011 Chateauneuf du Pape, Gigondas and Vacqueyras (Jan 2014)

Bright ruby-red. Vibrant red and dark berry scents are complemented by notes of garrigue, woodsmoke and dark chocolate. Rich and expansive but energetic as well, offering sweet blackberry and cherry compote flavors and a touch of licorice. Shows the heft of the vintage but comes off as lively on the long, spicy, smoky finish.

2012 and 2011 Chateauneuf du Pape, Gigondas and Vacqueyras (Jan 2014)

Bright ruby-red. Vibrant red and dark berry scents are complemented by notes of garrigue, woodsmoke and dark chocolate. Rich and expansive but energetic as well, offering sweet blackberry and cherry compote flavors and a touch of licorice. Shows the heft of the vintage but comes off as lively on the long, spicy, smoky finish.