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1982 Bordeaux, 20 Years On (Jul 2002)

Red-ruby. Rather evolved, chocolatey nose shows hints of oxidation. Too old in the mouth and starting to lose its fruit. This can’t be right. But I’ve found considerable variation with this wine, with some bottles showing classic Palmer aromas and flavors of dark berries and violet while others have been distinctly leathery and meaty, with…

A Century of Bordeaux: The Threes (Aug 2023)

When the 1983 Palmer flies high, it touches the stars. This is another bottle proving that at 40 years old it is better now than ever before. It is completely resplendent on the nose that blossoms in the glass with that heady concoction of red and black fruit, freshly-rolled tobacco, violet petals and an underlying…

Cellar Favorite: 1978 & 1990 Château de Beaucastel Châteauneuf-du-Pape (Dec 2019)

The 1990 Châteauneuf-du-Pape has a compelling bouquet of plump red fruit, oxtail, leather and morels, all well defined and full of chutzpah. The palate is smooth in texture and, at 29 years old, has certainly mellowed. There is a core of sweet fruit here, but it has softened with age and delivers a smorgasbord of…

Roederer Cristal Full Circle: 1993-2015 (Dec 2023)

The 2007 Cristal is pretty reticent in this tasting. Then again, it is sandwiched between two great vintages. It is the product of a freakishly early year and an August harvest, rare at the time but increasingly within normal parameters today. The 2007 is 58% Pinot Noir and 42% Chardonnay, which is to say a…

A Century of Bordeaux: The Twos (Sep 2022)

The 2012 Lafite-Rothschild has much more fruit concentration and presence on the nose, mulberry, leather, sage and a touch of tobacco. The palate is medium-bodied with fine tannins, clean and fresh with impressive purity and body. This feels “grand”, beautifully balanced though I find this attenuates a little towards the finish. Drink now, but it…

2012 Bordeaux: Messages in a Bottle (Jan 2016)

The 2012 Lafite-Rothschild opens with striking inner perfume. Long and beautifully persistent on the palate, the 2012 is ample and generous, but never heavy. Shades of dark red cherry and plum infusion shape the finish. The 2012 is not an epic Lafite, but it is expressive and delicious today.