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La Lumière Noire: 2019 Burgundy – Côte de Nuits (Dec 2020)

The 2019 Gevrey-Chambertin Petite Chapelle 1er Cru is very precise on the nose, more so than the Clos-Prieur, offering black cherries, raspberry and crushed stone. This is supremely well focused, though the 60% whole bunch is more noticeable at the moment compared to other cuvées. The palate is well balanced with very good structure. This…

La Lumière Noire: 2019 Burgundy – Côte de Nuits (Dec 2020)

The 2019 Chapelle-Chambertin Grand Cru, which includes 100% whole bunch, has a complex bouquet of black fruit, espresso and crushed stone aromas, displaying very good intensity. The focused palate is medium-bodied with very good structure and fine grip. At the moment, the whole bunch influences this Grand Cru, which is slightly bitter on the finish…

Château de la Tour Clos-Vougeot Vieilles Vignes 1985-2016 (Jun 2019)

(13.2% alcohol; 18 hectoliters per hectare produced; from vines harvested on September 23): Bright, moderately saturated medium red. Explosive, fruit-dominated aromas of dark berries, cherry, spices, mint, menthol, flowers and minerals. Conveys compelling sappy energy in a silky, medium-bodied package, with its black fruit and herb flavors complicated by a touch of saline minerality. Boasts…

Vinous Lockdown Special (Oct 2020)

The 2016 Clos de Vougeot Vieilles Vignes, Francois Labet’s old-vine cuvée, is dark, dense and powerful. Black cherry, plum, gravel, spice and licorice give the 2016 a real feeling of gravitas. The Vieilles Vignes is an imposing, brooding Burgundy. It comes across as heavy and overextracted. I prefer the straight bottling for its greater aromatic…

Dance the Quickstep: Burgundy 2020 (Dec 2021)

The 2020 Volnay Clos des Ducs 1er Cru was picked around 23 August. It has a highly perfumed bouquet with rose petals, red cherries, raspberry and incenses, beautifully defined and wonderfully controlled. The palate also conveys a sense of effortlessness that is utterly beguiling. Very harmonious, balletically-poised thanks to its fine bead of acidity, this…

Bordeaux 2014: The Southwold Tasting (Mar 2018)

The 2014 Petrus has a bouquet that storms from the glass with exotic red cherries, blood orange, strawberry tart and cedar scents, only calming down after several minutes. Rich and opulent – although they are not facets of a truly great Petrus to me. The palate is medium-bodied with a sweet core of candied red…