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1998, 1997 and 1996 Bordeaux (May 1999)

Full ruby-red. Deep aromas of smoky black cherry, black olive, minerals, cedar and game; I was reminded of a Montecristo No. 2. This really presents the full range of young Montrose aromas. Dense, sweet and layered; really reverberates on the palate. Very ripe on the aftertaste; subtle, complex flavors go on and on. The tannins…

Long Distance Runner: Brane-Cantenac 1924-2015 (Jan 2019)

The 1985 Brane-Cantenac was picked September 24 to October 13. It has a fleshy, animally, almost Rhône-like bouquet of red fruit infused with leather, fennel and briar. This is one of the most savory wines of the decade. The palate is medium-bodied with rounded, corpulent, soft red fruit tinged with fennel, orange peel and Chinese…

Stand and Deliver: 2001 Sauternes (Sep 2021)

Just weeks after tasting the 2001 Château d’Yquem at the estate, another bottle was served at a lunch in London and it was perfection. The aromatics are practically identical and likewise the palate, but this bottle, which had been decanted, displays a scintilla more tension, perhaps more “vibrancy” that so effortlessly counterbalances the richness. Irrespective…

Stand and Deliver: 2001 Sauternes (Sep 2021)

The 2001 Château d’Yquem at 20 years old: a legend? It certainly received much adulation on release. As a reminder, it was picked over five tries from September 18 to October 23 and has 150g/L of residual sugar. Limpid gold in color, as you would expect, it looks quite youthful for a Sauternes of this…

2018 Burgundy: Confounded Expectations (Jan 2020)

The 2018 Vosne-Romanée Les Chaumes 1er Cru offers ripe, precocious red cherry and crushed strawberry fruit on the nose, which is generous and voluminous in style. The palate is medium-bodied with succulent tannins, fleshy, silky-smooth and caressing, revealing veins of blue fruit toward the peppery finish. This is very fine and oh so seductive, but…

Dealing with the New Paradigm: Burgundy 2018 (Nov 2022)

The 2018 Echézeaux Grand Cru has a precocious, exuberant nose with vibrant red fruit intermixed with orange pith, potpourri and dried herbs – complex and very well delineated. The oak is seamlessly integrated both here and on the palate. It is finely sculpted, fresh and almost minty in character for a period, before the finish…