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Never a Dull Vintage in the Northern Rhône (Dec 2022)

Saturated ruby. Mineral- and spice-accented aromas of ripe cherry, dark berries, licorice and violet. Fleshy and expansive in the mouth, offering juicy blackberry and bitter cherry flavors, a hint of smokiness and a sweetening touch of cola on the back half. Turns spicier on the persistent finish, which features sneaky tannins and lingering smoke and…

Focus on Brunello di Montalcino (Sep 2003)

Good deep red. High-pitched aromas of currant, strawberry liqueur, licorice and shoe polish marred by obvious alcohol and a sickly floral note. Then tight, intense and on the dry side, a bit pinched and ungiving, with little obvious fruit showing. Finishes a bit dry, and in need of more freshness.

2003 Brunello di Montalcino (Jul 2008)

Bright, deep red. Aromas of plum, dark chocolate, tobacco and woodsy underbrush; very sangiovese. Then juicy, leanish and classically dry in the mouth but with sneaky intensity and good inner-palate energy to the flavors of tobacco and dried flowers. I like this wine’s restrained sweetness and impression of minerality. Finishes with a tightly coiled spring…

Montalcino: The Good, the Bad and the Ugly (Apr 2008)

Gianni Brunelli’s 2003 Brunello di Montalcino is a gorgeous, mid-weight wine that shows the generosity and openness of the vintage. This brooding Brunello is loaded with Sangiovese character in a ripe style that nevertheless retains notable balance, detail and poise. Today the tannins are quite firm, but they soften quite a bit with air.

Checking in on Piedmont’s 2000 Vintage (Jun 2011)

The 2000 Barolo Bussia Dardi Le Rose has lost much of its fruit, exposing the tannins and knocking the wine off balance. The tannins are already prominent, and will become even more imposing as the fruit continues to drop off, while the bouquet has entered its tertiary stage. Any remaining bottles need to be finished…

Focus on Barolo and Barbaresco (Nov 2004)

Medium red. Red cherry, raspberry, menthol and red licorice on the nose. Fuller and sweeter than the 2001 Barbaresco, with flavors of red cherry and licorice. Has more mid-palate stuffing to support its building but broad tannins, which arrive later and come across as riper. This and the 2001 Barbaresco were aged in large casks…