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The Top Clarets of 2006 (May 2009)

Bright, full ruby-red. Ripe aromas of blackberry, kirsch, cedar and sexy oak. Rich, broad and pliant, with chewy, vibrant flavors of black fruits and licorice. This boasts excellent texture and depth for a second wine. Finishes with substantial dusty, fine tannins and excellent length. A serious and full vintage for Clos du Marquis, but less…

Three Vertical Tastings (Sep 2004)

Full ruby-red. Youthful, perfumed nose hints at cherry, flowers, licorice and lead pencil. Dense, brooding and powerful, with superb depth and clarity of cherry, cassis, mineral and floral flavors. An aristocratic, backward, gripping Ornellaia that finishes with explosive length and building tannins. If the ’98 is feminine, this is distinctly masculine. Still an infant.

Ornellaia: A Major Retrospective 1985-2006 (Dec 2009)

The 1999 Ornellaia (magnum) does not disappoint. This vivid, energetic wine emerges from the glass with a myriad of graphite, menthol, licorice, leather and dark fruit wrapped around a powerful core. The bouquet alone is worth the price of admission. Though not as opulent as the 1997, the 1999 offers exceptional length and a finessed,…

New Wines from the Tuscan Coast (Jul 2003)

(65% cabernet sauvignon, 30% merlot and 5% cabernet franc) Deep, saturated ruby. The reluctant raspberry nose is followed by ultraripe plum and blackcurrant flavors that penetrate the inner mouth in this extraordinarily plush and fat wine. Bitter chocolate and a hint of vanilla complete the sensory attack. The back end is supported by firm but…

2012 Bordeaux: Messages in a Bottle (Jan 2016)

The 2012 Cantin is soft, forward and delicate, all of which make it an excellent choice for drinking over the next few years. Although undoubtedly a pretty wine, it would be nice to see a little more depth and persistence. Hints of crushed flowers, spices and red stone fruits add the closing shades of nuance.

Vinous Table: Cornus, London, UK (Oct 2024)

The 2004 Château Margaux is a vintage that I tasted earlier this year at the château, although here it is a rare chance to savor the wine from neck to punt. What a joy. It is certainly open for business on the nose, leaning towards red rather than black fruit, violet and peony, cedar and…