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Margaux Focus 3: Château Margaux (Sep 2023)

The 1996 Château Margaux stands as one of the pinnacles during Paul Pontallier’s illustrious tenure. I remember it dazzling out of barrel, perhaps my first memory of tasting wine at that prenatal stage. It has retained the fabulous tension and freshness on the nose, every atom infused with mineralité, subtle pressed flower/violet scents unfurling with…

1982 Bordeaux, 20 Years On (Jul 2002)

Bright full ruby. Pure, perfumed aromas of cassis and violet. Dense and tactile in the mouth; a huge, chewy wine with major extract but also considerable refinement. Almost painfully backward today, and a bit less perfumed than it was in the year or so after the bottling, but the huge tannins show no hardness. Another…

In Excelsis: Château Latour 1887 – 2010 (Jul 2018)

The 1996 Latour is a wine that I often find overrated and did not achieve everything that might have been possible in this favourable growing season. That said, this might well be the best of around two dozen bottles I have encountered over the years. As usual, the 1996 is decidedly austere at first, standoffish,…

1998, 1997 and 1996 Bordeaux (May 1999)

Saturated ruby-red. Dark berries, violet, licorice and a note of torrefaction. Explosive, pure flavors are almost too big for the mouth. Finishes with big, sweet tannins and expanding, exhilarating flavors of pruneaux and crystallized dark berries. Perfectly integrated oak. A great Latour.

Life on the Margin: Chablis 2019/2020 (Oct 2021)

The 2020 Chablis Village comes from 50 different plots around 50 years old, the majority planted at the end of the 1960s. The simple but well-defined bouquet of Granny Smith apples is light and airy. The palate is crisp and taut with citrus lemon and saline notes. Very citric on the finish, and not long,…

The 2019 Napa Valley Cabernets: A Deep Dive (Jan 2022)

The 2018 Promontory is another riveting wine from the Harlan family and winemaker David Cilli. It has been nothing short of spectacular in two recent tastings. “What is a 100-point wine?” I am often asked. Well, it is a wine that is complete, where nothing sticks out, and where all the elements are in perfect…