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Looking The Part: Pichon-Baron 1953 – 2015 (Jan 2019)

The 1997 Pichon-Baron has a light bouquet of dusty black fruit, rather leathery and missing a little definition. It has fatigued since I last tasted it. The medium-bodied palate is thin and simple, with dry tannin, and now lacks vigor toward the finish. Even in the context of a problematic vintage, this is an underwhelming…

1999, 1998 and 1997 Bordeaux (May 2000)

Dullish ruby-red. Aromas of currant, leather, smoked meat and dill. Sweet plummy flavors in the mouth; offers good vinosity and a rather easygoing structure. Finishes with late notes of pepper and leather.

Caught Somewhere in Time: Clos de Tart 1887-2016 (Feb 2019)

The 2016 Clos de Tart Grand Cru, cropped at 35hl/ha, is the first year farmed biodynamically. This was completely breathtaking in barrel, and now, in bottle, nothing has changed in that respect. It has an ineffably complex bouquet, not as intense as it showed in barrel yet extremely deep and cerebral, black fruit mingling with…

Red Burgundy ’16 & ’15: Superb Vintages, Different Styles (Jan 2018)

(an approximation of the final blend): Bright, deep red. Very pure but reserved aromas of raspberry, crushed rock, rose petal, spices, mocha and tobacco, lifted by a calcaire pungency. Compellingly silky and seamless but with terrific energy and subtle intensity to its dense flavors of red berries, dark cherry, spices and powdered stone, complicated by…

Ironing Out The Kinks: Jim Barry The Armagh 1985-2021 (Jun 2024)

The 2013 Shiraz The Armagh immediately draws you in with a wild mix of violets, peppermint, sage and Australian garrigue over a blackberry backbone, which provide an intriguing but delicious introduction. It then tightens up, with firm claret tannins and chalky acidity adding tension to this youthful and lengthy package. Dark berry flavors retain their…

South Australia, Victoria and a Bit Beyond (Sep 2022)

Inky ruby. A hugely perfumed, expansive bouquet evokes ripe black and blue fruits, candied violet, incense and mocha, and an exotic Indian spice flourish builds slowly with air. Appealingly sweet and palate-coating, offering densely packed cassis, blueberry and cherry liqueur flavors complemented by suave vanilla and five-spice powder accents. For all its mass, this wine…