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The Top Clarets of 2006 (May 2009)

Bright red-ruby. Aromas of boysenberry, licorice and cedary, nutty oak lifted by a floral topnote. Juicy, dry and vinous; not a particularly fleshy wine but elegant, high-pitched and sexy, with lovely energy giving clarity to the sappy dark fruit, licorice and oak flavors. Finishes with firm tannins and very good sneaky persistence. Classic claret. Not…

A Test Of Greatness: 2009 Bordeaux Ten Years On (March 2019)

The 2009 Larrivet Haut-Brion feels a little pinched on the nose, quite backward with black cherry and light black olive scents, becoming more marine like with aeration. The palate is medium-bodied with supple tannin, slightly grainy in texture with brown spices sprinkled over the structured finish that feels a little bitter and rustic. Not sure…

The 2009 Clarets (Jul 2012)

Red-ruby. Liqueur-like aromas of black cherry, strawberry, mocha and smoky roasted herbs; a southern style of Bordeaux. Supple, sweet and elegant, with ripe, expressive flavors of red fruits, mocha and herbs complicated by leather and underbrush. Harmonious ripe acidity gives lift to this sexy wine. Finishes with a saline quality and lovely length. Drink over…

Champagne: The 2024 Spring Preview (Mar 2024)

Once again, the 2012 Dom Pérignon is stellar. It’s a potent, tightly-wound Champagne. That should serve it well in the future, but today, the 2012 is not terribly expressive. Time in the glass brings out striking aromatic top notes and plenty of energy to match. Low yields, down 30-40%, produced a wild, dynamic Champagne endowed…

Champagne: 2021 New Releases (Nov 2021)

The 2012 Dom Pérignon is a dense, powerful wine. I am almost shocked by its vinous intensity and raw, unbridled power. The 2012 reminds me of the 2003, but with more finesse and not quite as pushed. Mildew, rain and frost were challenges and resulted in low yields, something that was further compounded by warm,…

2018 Burgundy: Confounded Expectations (Jan 2020)

The 2018 Vosne-Romanée Village, which comes in at 14.4% alcohol this year, does feel a little smudged on the nose compared to other crus. The palate is ripe and heady with opulent black and blueberry fruit, displaying fine acidity and white pepper and thyme toward the finish. It’s a wine that I think will drink…