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Rockeries in Living Rooms: 1988 vs. 1989 Bordeaux (Jul 2024)

It has been several years since I last encountered the 1988 Léoville Barton. It is just a tad smudged on the nose compared to the 1988 Lynch Bages. Pencil box aromas mix with black fruit and a liberal sprinkling of black pepper. The palate has evolved in the interim period, grainier in texture than I…

Chianti Classico: The Stellar 2015s and Surprising 2014s (Jan 2018)

The highlight in this range, the exquisite 2014 Tignanello is all about persistence and understated class. The aromatics alone are captivating. Sculpted, finely delineated flavors add to the wine’s vivid personality. Because of the challenges posed by the growing season, the blend leans more heavily toward Cabernet Sauvignon than is typically the case. Above all…

Looking Backward/Looking Forward: 2000 vs 2001 Bordeaux (Sep 2021)

The 2000 Château Margaux has always been one of the stars of the millennial vintage. A dozen or so bottles over the years, starting with my first encounter from bottle with the late Paul Pontallier, have never disappointed. Philippe Bascaule did not decant this bottle, although it does deserve an hour’s aeration before serving. Deep…

The Annual Red Bordeaux Report (May 2003)

Full ruby-red. Penetrating, highly perfumed aromas of sappy dark berries, violet and minerals; seems less oaky today than the ’01. Offers compelling mouthfilling concentration and perfume. A wine of great power and consistency, with a pungent minerality lingering on the palate-staining finish. This somehow doesn’t flag or grow narrower even after one swallows or spits….

Margaux Focus 3: Château Margaux (Sep 2023)

The 2000 Château Margaux remains one of the standouts of the millennial year. This bottle is consistent with the previous example. It’s deep in color. The aromatics are intense and backward, opening with blackberry, crushed violet and pencil box scents with time, but there remains a sense of beguiling aloofness, as if you are so…

Lagrange 1959-2015 (Dec 2020)

The 2003 Lagrange was an early vintage picked from 11 to 24 September, the second earlier ever. For a 2003 it has an attractive bouquet with red cherry, cranberry, fig confit and dates, perhaps lacking typicity but there is nothing overblown. The palate is medium-bodied with supple tannins, fleshy and rounded with light spicy notes,…