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Pages in the Photo Album: Vieux Château Certan 1928-2013 (Mar 2022)

The 1995 Vieux Château Certan is a very capable wine that is now reaching its peak. The Cabernet Franc has always been the key component, imparting a lovely ferrous, undergrowth note on the nose that neatly counterbalances the intense red and black fruit laced with mint. The palate is ripe and generous with kirsch and…

Focus on Champagne (Nov 1998)

Pale color. Youthful aromas of lemon, quince, pear, toast, spice, chalk and red berries. Big, sweet and seamless, if a bit clenched in the early going. A powerful, very young wine whose fruit builds slowly in the mouth and explodes on the finish. A charry note contributes to its complexity. Possesses amazing depth of fruit,…

Focus on Champagne (Nov 2003)

Medium yellow color. Brooding aromas of pineapple, pine needles, toffee and nuts. Dense, full and quite dry, with penetrating fruit, hints of oak spice, and powerful acids that have not yet come into harmony. But this extremely impressive young Bollinger vintage shifts into a higher gear on the back end, showing even more flavor intensity…

1999 and 1998 Red Burgundies (Mar 2001)

Good red-ruby. Deep, complex nose combines cherry, raspberry, licorice, minerals and spices. Expansive, silky and sweet, but pure and fresh, with lovely incipient complexity and harmonious acidity. Finishes with firm, toothcoating tannins and terrific persistence. Also built for extended aging.

Fermented Grape Juice: Romanée-Conti 1953-2005 (Apr 2019)

This is my third bottle of 1999 Romanée-Conti Grand Cru and it repeats the breathtaking performance of the previous two. That said, it demands more aeration than I was expecting, backward and more introspective for the first 60 minutes until that crystalline, mineral-driven, profound bouquet reveals itself. The aromatics just shimmer. The palate is perfectly…

2000 and 1999 Red Burgundies (Mar 2002)

Ruby-red. Deep, sappy, brooding nose dominated by liqueur-like ripeness and oriental spices. Huge yet magically light on its feet; completely unevolved and less showy and sweet today than La Tache, but has all the elements for future greatness. The suggestion of green austerity will be transformed into rose petal in 12 to 15 years, says…