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New Vintage Champagnes (Nov 2007)

Bright gold. Deep, subtly smoky nectarine and musky yellow plum aromas are energized by a suave mineral quality. Broad and fleshy, with deep, chewy pear, pit fruit and buttered toast flavors. A serious style, with velvety texture and excellent finishing punch. This has the concentration to repay cellaring but is open-knit enough to enjoy on…

Roederer Cristal Full Circle: 1993-2015 (Dec 2023)

The 2000 Cristal is gorgeous. Open-knit, creamy and totally seductive, the 2000 is a charmer. There are no hard edges or angular contours in this supple, open-knit Champagne. A gentle touch of reduction lingers on the close. The 2000 is an absolute delight today. “It was a very wet, stormy year with slow ripeness,” Lécaillon…

The 2010 Clarets: A Modern Classic (Jul 2013)

Good bright, deep red. Captivating scents of cassis, violet, minerals, bitter chocolate and wild herbs. Extremely fine-grained but also very dense and chewy for young Cheval Blanc, showing great cabernet franc lift and perfume and a downright velvety texture. This deep, multilayered wine was a bit dominated by its brooding tannins and big structure when…

Bordeaux 2010: All That Glitters… (May 2011)

(a 56/44 blend of cabernet franc and merlot; 3.8 pH; 84 IPT; 14.5% alcohol; a roughly 60% selection for the grand vin Deep ruby-purple. Brooding nose opens slowly with air to reveal concentrated, multifaceted aromas of cassis, violet, coffee, minerals and white pepper. Very rich and dense on entry, displaying concentrated flavors of black fruits,…

Squares & Circles: Bordeaux ‘10 At Ten (Apr 2020)

The 2010 Cheval Blanc has another extravagant bouquet with ample red cherries, raspberry preserve, mulberry, fig and singed leather. The palate is medium-bodied with supple tannins, quite dense and assertive, backward with a sinewy finish that just feels a little forced compared to some of the other wines in this flight. With time in the…

Chianti Classico: More Than Meets The Eye (Sep 2020)

The 2017 Solaia has shut down since I last tasted it about a year ago, but not as dramatically as Tignanello. The difference might be that Sangiovese drives the blend in Tignanello, while Cabernet Sauvignon is at the core of Solaia. Even so, today, I see more energy than in the past. As a recent…