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A Century of Bordeaux: The Eights (May 2018)

Tasted two or three times before, the 1998 Calon Segur is a wine that showed well from barrel but became rather curmudgeonly in bottle. This bottle replicated the one shown at BI Wine & Spirit’s Calon Segur dinner early in 2016. It is a blend of 55% Cabernet Sauvignon, 8% Cabernet Franc, 35% Merlot and…

1998, 1997 and 1996 Bordeaux (May 1999)

Very good deep ruby. Spicy aromas of black raspberry, cassis, black cherry, licorice and cocoa powder. Supple and lush, with a chocolatey merlot character and adequate acidity. Not especially dense and unusually forward for a northern Medoc wine from this vintage. Finishes with dusty tannins and good but not outstanding length.

A Century of Bordeaux: The Threes (Aug 2023)

The 1983 Latour is served blind with a mischievous Nicolas Glumineau next door at Pichon-Lalande. This is a fine showing for a wine unfairly lying in the shadow of the previous vintage. Blackberry, tobacco and shavings of black truffle on the nose that is higher-toned than you would expect (indeed, it throws me off identifying…

1998 and 1997 Red Burgundies (Mar 2000)

Full red. Superripe aromas of redcurrant, plum and tobacco. Nicely concentrated and juicy, with smoke and herbal nuances. Finishes with good length and dusty tannins, along with a faint herbaceousness that I did not notice in a bottle tasted a year ago just after the mise.

Barbaresco 2016 & 2017 – A Tale of Two Vintages (Nov 2019)

The 2016 Barbaresco is a stunning wine with tremendous richness for this bottling. Ample, deep and powerful, the 2016 exudes pedigree and class from start to finish. I can’t remember a straight Barbaresco here with this much fruit density and unctuous richness, and yet there is more than enough tannin and overall structure to give…

South Africa: 2021 New Releases from the Cape (Nov 2021)

The 2018 Red Reserve Biodynamic has a harmonious, delineated bouquet of black cherries, boysenberry, pressed violets and a pinch of white pepper. You get the feeling it is holding something back for later. The palate is medium-bodied with juicy ripe tannins and great depth and concentration, particularly on the long finish, which leaves white pepper…