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Bordeaux 2018: Not Back in Black (Mar 2021)

The 2018 Ausone is mind-blowing. The aromatics alone are mesmerizing. I don't know what more to say. Cabernet Franc is so expressive, so vibrant so nuanced. Rose petal, cinnamon, star anise and sage meld into a core of red fleshed fruit. The 2018 doesn't impress with opulence or richness, rather it is a Saint-Émilion that…

Bordeaux 2018: Not Back in Black (Mar 2021)

The 2018 Cheval Blanc is magnificent. In a vintage in which so many wines are opulent and dense, Cheval Blanc maintains striking translucence while conveying the natural radiance of the year. Silky, perfumed and exceptionally vivid, the 2018 pulses with energy from start to finish. Sage, mint, lavender and mocha all meld together on the…

The Future’s Definitely Not What It Was: Bordeaux 2018 (Mar 2021)

When I tasted the 2018 Cheval Blanc from barrel, I felt that it deserved a very good score, though not one that implied potential perfection. The bottle was tasted upon opening, but I only began to pen my tasting note after 3–4 hours’ decanting. I still find the bouquet more open than many recent vintages,…

Back to Burgfest: 2017 Reds – Blind (Jan 2022)

The 2017 Vosne-Romanée Les Beaux Monts 1er Cru presents a pure, well-defined nose offering sous-bois character and good focus. The palate is well balanced, nicely structured, not amazingly complex but strict, with a fresh, spicy finish that lingers. This needs time to resolve, but it should come through nicely. A little introverted, so be patient……

Bordeaux 2009: The Best Ever? (May 2010)

(69% cabernet sauvignon, 30% merlot, 1% petit verdot; 14.5% alcohol; 50% new oak) Very dark ruby. Flattering nose offers ripe blackberry, minty minerals, licorice and dry herbs. Enters fresh and sweet, then turns a little rigid due to drying tannins, but with plenty of ripe black fruit flavors and lively acids. A pretty floral note…

A Test Of Greatness: 2009 Bordeaux Ten Years On (March 2019)

The 2009 Les Pagodes de Cos takes a few swirls of the glass to unfurl, perhaps never quite clicking into fifth gear. Tobacco-stained black fruit, briary and woodland scents eventually emerge; with decanting I suspect this would transmute into an attractive bouquet. The palate is medium-bodied with firm tannin, quite symmetrical and extremely well balanced….