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New Vintage Champagne Releases (Nov 2004)

Full copper-gold color. Initially restrained, brooding nose exploded with aeration, showing apple, orange, apricot, honey, iodine, smoke, hazelnut, macadamia and a suggestion of dry oloroso sherry. Dense, full, chewy and rich; an extraordinarily solid Champagne with an intriguing suggestion of Calvados. Broadens toward the back and goes on and on on the echoing aftertaste, with…

This Is Not Morey-Saint-Denis (March 2019)

The 2007 Vosne-Romanée Aux Malconsorts 1er Cru is tasted from magnum. It has a similar bouquet to the debut 2006 with a slightly ferrous tincture, although there is a little more intensity here compared to previous vintages, hints of tomato vine developing alongside the light, tertiary red fruit. The palate is medium-bodied with tart red…

2008 and 2007 Red Burgundies (Mar 2010)

Very pale red. Complex nose offers a subtle red raspberry note along with some earthy underbrush. Juicy and intense on entry, then sweeter and richer than the Beaux-Monts in the middle palate, with good lift and a floral nuance. Finishes with dusty tannins and a slight heaviness this wine did not show in barrel. I…

Fairest of Them All: Cos d’Estournel 1928 – 2015 (Oct 2018)

The 1982 Cos d’Estournel is a blend of 60% Cabernet Sauvignon and 40% Merlot. I have always fallen for the aromatics of this 1982: roasted chestnut and a touch of aniseed that combines effortlessly with the melted red berry fruit, touches of tar developing with time. The palate is medium-bodied with grainy tannin, perhaps not…

Vinous Icons: Roederer – Four Decades of Cristal & Cristal Rosé (Nov 2024)

The 2008 Cristal Rosé is unquestionably one of the greatest wines longtime Chef de Cave Jean-Baptiste Lécaillon has made at Roederer. Bright saline and chalky notes run through a core of vibrant, red-toned fruit. The 2008 is tightly wound and nervous, yet it also has more than enough depth to keep it from being overly…

Focus on Champagne (Nov 1999)

Gold-tinged color. Deep, maturing aromas of toffee, butterscotch, ginger and molasses. Fat and rich in the mouth, with excellent intensity; in the mature Bollinger style but far more successful than the bottling from the lower-acid 1989 vintage. Thick with extract, and palate-staining on the aftertaste. A main-course Champagne.