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2009 Red Burgundies (Mar 2012)

Good bright, deep red. Knockout nose combines cherry liqueur, raspberry jam, mocha and clove. At once velvety and energetic, with strong acidity enlivening the intense flavors of candied red fruits. The nobility of texture and tannins here is remarkable. Finishes extremely long and scented, with late suggestions of torrefaction. This made the very promising 2010…

Cleaning Out the Cupboard: Bordeaux 1943-2020 (Jan 2023)

It has been several years since I last tasted the 1970 Haut-Brion. Unfortunately, one bottle opened in Burgundy was a little oxidized, though another was more representative. Even so, it was not a great period for the estate, then owned by the Woltners. Plenty of dusty black fruit on the nose infused with black olive,…

1997, 1996 and 1995 Bordeaux (May 1998)

Good full red. Fruit-driven aromas are complicated by floral and licorice nuances. Fairly sweet and ripe in the middle palate, with tobacco, spice and licorice flavors of noteworthy purity. Very Pauillac in its dry, penetrating flavor, but I found this sweeter than the Duhart-Milon tasted alongside it.

Chianti Classico & Neighbors: Looking at the 2020s and 2019s (Jul 2022)

The 2018 I Sodi di San Niccolò is the most elegant Sodi I have ever tasted, and I have tasted them all. Sodi can be quite the bruiser in its youth, as the tannins are often imposing, but the 2018 is impressive because there is more than enough fruit to balance things out. Dark cherry,…

2021 Bordeaux: L’Enfant Terrible (Feb 2024)

The 2021 Figeac is a classy, supremely polished Saint-Émilion. Floral and savory notes meld into a core of dark cherry, leather, tobacco, spice, mocha and lavender. I imagine the 2021 will drink well with minimal cellaring. It’s an undeniably attractive wine with no hard edges, but also less textural depth than the best years. Managing…

2+2=5: Bordeaux 2021 In Bottle (Feb 2024)

The 2021 Figeac was bottled the previous mid-July after being stored in vat for two months to gain more on the mid-palate. It has a sensual bouquet with pure wild strawberry and raspberry fruit, pencil box and tobacco scents that emanate from the Cabernet component. This seems to be a bit closed on the day….