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An Exploration of Time: Gruaud Larose 1831-2018 (Mar 2024)

The 1986 Gruaud Larose is a vintage that has cropped up several times at various dinners, and after the splendid 1982, it vied with the 1989 as the best of the decade. A magnificent-looking imperial is poured at Zoldering in Amsterdam. This indicates that a proportion of the fruit has faded in recent years, rendering…

A Century – Not Out: Talbot 1919-2010 (Oct 2019)

The 1986 Talbot has a strong reputation although my solitary encounter back in 2001 seems contrary. Fortunately this bottle upholds this as being one of the finest Talbots in recent years, one in which the château recorded a record in terms of quantity. It has a beautiful, quite beguiling, classically styled bouquet with wild strawberry,…

Veneto: A Constant State of Evolution (Feb 2024)

The 2010 Amarone della Valpolicella is an elegant beauty, with cooling herbal tones and cloves embellishing baked cherries and hints of incense. This opens with a lovely inner sweetness, its ripe red and black fruits energized by vibrant acidity. Violet florals and suggestions of cocoa swirl throughout. The 2010 finishes long—still slightly tannic yet coming…

Chianti Classico: More Than Meets The Eye (Sep 2020)

Last year I wrote that the 2017 Tignanello would drink well early. Unless that happens within the next two years or so, that will not turn out to be the case. Right after bottling, the 2017 was so generous, but since then it has really gone into a shell. That won’t be an issue over…

The 2009 Red Burgundies from Bottle (Apr 2012)

The 2009 Clos de Tart saturates the palate with exotic, ripe red fruit. The quality of the fruit gives an impression of near seamlessness despite the wine’s considerable volume and depth. Tar, licorice and smoke are some of the many notes that wrap around the intense, powerful finish. There is more than enough depth and…

Caught Somewhere in Time: Clos de Tart 1887-2016 (Feb 2019)

The 2009 Clos de Tart Grand Cru is a wine that turns everything up to 11. It was picked from September 15 at 29.4hl/ha with 13.6° alcohol, then matured for 17 months in new oak. There was some whole bunch here, although I do not know the exact percentage. The incredibly intense, powerful bouquet of…