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2000, 1999 and 1998 Bordeaux (May 2001)

Ruby-red. Pungent oak spices, black cherry, dark chocolate and minerals on the very pure nose. Silky and opulent in the mouth, with jammy cherry and chocolate flavors. Quite dense for the vintage. Finishes very long and lush. This wine comes from Thunevin Saint-Sulpice holding and other flat land.

A Century of Bordeaux: The Nines (Sep 2019)

The 1999 Valandraud has a surprisingly dark color and seems very youthful for its age. It is concentrated and heady, offering copious dark cherry and black currant fruit, a touch of camphor, crème de cassis and, later, a hint of Japanese nori. The medium-bodied palate presents a sweet core of ripe, rounded black fruit tinged…

Cellar Favorite: 1928-2011 Lascombes (Oct 2022)

The 1996 Lascombes from jeroboam has a simple nose, pretty in its own way, but it fundamentally lacks the DNA of a Margaux. There is a touch of rose petals with time. The palate is medium-bodied with dry tannins, rather hollow on the mid-palate with a light and slightly saline finish that needs more substance….

1998, 1997 and 1996 Bordeaux (May 1999)

Full ruby-red. Deep aromas of smoky black cherry, black olive, minerals, cedar and game; I was reminded of a Montecristo No. 2. This really presents the full range of young Montrose aromas. Dense, sweet and layered; really reverberates on the palate. Very ripe on the aftertaste; subtle, complex flavors go on and on. The tannins…

Long Distance Runner: Brane-Cantenac 1924-2015 (Jan 2019)

The 1985 Brane-Cantenac was picked September 24 to October 13. It has a fleshy, animally, almost Rhône-like bouquet of red fruit infused with leather, fennel and briar. This is one of the most savory wines of the decade. The palate is medium-bodied with rounded, corpulent, soft red fruit tinged with fennel, orange peel and Chinese…

Stand and Deliver: 2001 Sauternes (Sep 2021)

Just weeks after tasting the 2001 Château d’Yquem at the estate, another bottle was served at a lunch in London and it was perfection. The aromatics are practically identical and likewise the palate, but this bottle, which had been decanted, displays a scintilla more tension, perhaps more “vibrancy” that so effortlessly counterbalances the richness. Irrespective…