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The Annual Red Bordeaux Report (May 2006)

Red-ruby. Cool aromas of blackberry and mint. Quite primary and unevolved today, with reasonably intense dark fruit flavors currently suppressed by a streak of acidity that gives the finish a dry edge. Seems a bit underripe/overripe today and is showing awkwardly.

La Lumière Noire: 2019 Burgundy – Côte de Beaune (Dec 2020)

The 2018 Nuits Saint-Georges Les Bousselots 1er Cru has quite a medicinal, camphor-tinged bouquet that is nicely defined if still a bit oaky. The palate is full-bodied and continues the medicinal theme, delivering sweet cassis and black cherry fruit with a heady finish.

Tuscany 2009 and 2010: A World of Opposites (Jun 2012)

The 2008 Ornellaia continues to blossom in the bottle. Dark cherries, chocolate, espresso, blackberries and mocha are just some of the many notes that explode from the glass. A rich tapestry of licorice, tar and camphor notes develop in the glass, adding considerable complexity. The 2008 is a huge, structured Ornellaia endowed with massive structure….

Looking Backward/Looking Forward: 2000 vs 2001 Bordeaux (Sep 2021)

The 2000 Siran presents a pleasant bouquet of red cherries and crushed strawberry, pretty and dainty, yet perhaps not articulating the terroir like recent vintages. The palate is medium-bodied with soft tannins, quite earthy and almost Saint-Julien-like in style, revealing blackberry notes toward the finish, where it fades a little when you want it to…

The 2012 Red Burgundies from Bottle (Mar 2015)

Moderately saturated medium red. Aromas of plum, redcurrant, smoky minerals, earthy underbrush and flowers. Fresh and not at all overripe, with lovely intense red fruit flavors displaying good inner-mouth tension. This seems already to be shutting down in the bottle. A bit sullen at present now but should ultimately make a complex bottle.

Where the Heart Is: Ducru-Beaucaillou 1934-2018 (Jul 2022)

The 1979 Ducru-Beaucaillou, a vintage that I have not encountered before, has a light and innocuous bouquet, mint-tinged black fruit, quite herbal but actually better than some more revered vintages of the Eighties. The palate is medium-bodied with a herbal entry, moderate weight, rustic but showing less dryness on the finish that expected. It’s an…