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Bring Out Your “Dead”: Pichon-Lalande 1957-2013 (Aug 2022)

The 1971 Pichon-Lalande is a vintage that I have drunk several times over the years, including two or three ex-château bottles like this. This is superior to previous ones that I have encountered with remnants of dusty black fruit on the nose, a little herbaceous but showing decent vigour. The palate is loose-knit with coarse…

Two Imaginary Boys: Pichon-Lalande (Aug 2019)

The 1971 Pichon-Lalande has never really been a successful wine, and this bottle is no different. There is nothing much on the nose except vestiges of autumn leaves. It opens a little to offer earthy tones, but it still pales against the 1975 tasted alongside. The palate is medium-bodied with soft tannin, rather hollow and…

Long Distance Runner: Brane-Cantenac 1924-2015 (Jan 2019)

The 1987 Brane-Cantenac is a vintage that I have not met for a number of years. Picked October 1–15 after a rain-affected September, the perfectly satisfactory nose presents clean, leather- and bay-leaf-tinged red fruit. The medium-bodied palate is simple but balanced and early-drinking in style, offering fine-grained tannin and tapering toward a light, drying cedar…

1982 Bordeaux, 20 Years On (Jul 2002)

Good full ruby-red. Slightly cooked red fruits (cherry, redcurrant), cedar and leather on the nose, plus a faint dusty quality. Nicely sweet and structured, with good intensity and shape. More complex than most ’82 Margaux bottlings. Firmly built wine, finishing with good grip and length.

Two Imaginary Boys: Pichon-Lalande (Aug 2019)

The 1979 Pichon-Lalande was born in an era when Michel Delon of Léoville Las-Cases assisted at the property and lent his magic touch. It has a lovely, leafy and autumnal bouquet plus touches of meat juices. Like the 1976, it seems founded on the Merlot rather than the Cabernet Sauvignon. It has a smooth texture,…

An Exploration of Time: Gruaud Larose 1831-2018 (Mar 2024)

The 2009 Gruaud Larose is far superior to the previous vintage; interestingly, the first vintage is based on only Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot. There’s much more fruit concentration here, with blackberry and raspberry laced with iodine and incense. It is cohesive, though not as complex as the bottle four years ago. The palate is medium-bodied…