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The 2013 & 2012 Red Burgundies (Apr 2015)

As usual, I tasted Clos de Tart in its separate fermentations and then in an approximate blend. The late harvest produced a dark, brooding Clos de Tart endowed with fabulous depth. Dark and deeply spiced to the core, the 2013 is incredibly vivid in the glass, with gorgeous interplay between the old-vine fruit and aromatic…

Caught Somewhere in Time: Clos de Tart 1887-2016 (Feb 2019)

The 2013 Clos de Tart Grand Cru was picked from October 8. I prefer the bouquet to that of the more confit-like 2014; this is very fresh and vivacious, offering black cherries mixed with blueberry and light violet aromas, the mineral component more expressive. The palate is medium-bodied with crunchy black fruit on the entry,…

The Comedown: Bordeaux 2011 Ten-Years-On (Apr 2022)

The 2011 Clos du Marquis has a pretty nose with vivacious red fruit, rose petal and light tertiary scents. Nicely defined. The palate is medium-bodied with dry tannins, fine acidity, a little pinched and lacking length, but at least there is decent freshness. Not bad, but I have had better bottles than this example. Tasted…

2011 Bordeaux from the Bottle (Jul 2014)

Bright ruby. Perfumed, expressive aromas of ripe blackberry and candied cherry are joined by suggestions of potpourri and an intense note of violet. Broad and sweet on entry, with weighty dark berry and ripe dark cherry flavors showing a floral quality, but turns austere, even a little bitter, on the back end. The fruit expands…

The Barossa: An Ascent to Higher Quality (Dec 2021)

Opaque ruby. Powerful blackcurrant, cherry, pipe tobacco, potpourri and woodsmoke qualities on the assertively perfumed nose. Fleshy and expansive in the mouth, offering concentrated black and blue fruit flavors and notes of candied licorice, succulent herbs and vanilla that build in the glass. Gains energy with air and finishes on a bitter cherry note, with…

La Lumière Noire: 2019 Burgundy – Côte de Nuits (Dec 2020)

From Vougeraie’s two plots, the 2019 Musigny Grand Cru was sorted with Mozart’s Greatest Hits playing in the background (not joking) and includes 100% whole bunch. The exquisite bouquet of beautifully defined mineral-driven red and black fruit does this noble vineyard justice. The palate is medium-bodied with lithe tannins, good grip and depth. Quite sweet…