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A Century of…Fours (Jun 2024)

The 2004 Clos du Marquis has an old-school Saint-Julien bouquet with tertiary, slightly leathery red fruit that needs more fruit than the growing season didn’t bestow. The palate is medium-bodied with a soy-tinged entry. A little pinched with rustic tannins, it just misses some flesh on the finish. Drink soon.

2005 Tuscany – Ten Years Later (Dec 2015)

The 2005 Tignanello is just beginning to enter the early part of its drinking window, although it clearly has enough stuffing to drink well for another 20 years, if not longer. Smoke, graphite, plums, earthiness, black cherries and spices take shape in the glass, but it is the wine pure power and intensity – both…

Focus on Champagne (Nov 1998)

Earth, mushroom and toffee on the nose. Big, rich and very dry; features the typical, maturing Bollinger flavors of coffee and toffee but lovely ripe acidity gives the wine terrific freshness and superb cut. Full, creamy and complex. A superb R.D. from a great vintage.

Focus on Barolo and Barbaresco (Nov 2011)

(white label): Medium red. High-pitched, rather cool aromas of cherry, raspberry, white tobacco, medicinal herbs, minerals and menthol. Then Quite dry and backward on the palate, with mint and herb flavor dominating. Almost Barolo-like in its medicinal character. Very young and backward Asili, displaying terrific fruit through the retronasal passage.

Central Tuscany 2003 and 2004: A Tale of Two Vintages
 (June 2007)

The estate’s 2004 Camartina is another irresistibly sexy wine. A deeply-colored ruby, it displays captivating aromatics along with notes of blackberries, blueberries, violets and graphite that emerge on its medium-bodied frame. The fine tannins make it a highly enjoyable wine even at this early stage, but my experience suggests that another few years of bottle…