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Focus on Barolo and Barbaresco (Nov 2007)

(the first vintage for this wine, from six-year-old vines in Falletto purchased by Giacosa in 2000) Good deep red. Expressive nose melds raspberry, truffle and underbrush; less precise than the 2004 Asili. Then sweet, creamy and seamless in the mouth, with an almost exotic character to the cherry and raspberry fruit. Offers impressive power for…

2004 Barolo: The Cream Rises to The Top (May 2015)

Bruno Giacosa’s 2004 Barolo Croera is an excellent choice for drinking over the next decade or so. A pretty, understated wine, the Croera offers lovely balance in a feminine style that is typical of La Morra. Rose petal, mint, sage, crushed raspberries and anise shape the aromatic, mid-weight finish. If opened today, the 2004 needs…

Bordeaux 2011: Tales of Tannins and Terroir (May 2012)

Ruby red. Enticing aromas of ripe plum, cassis and chocolatey torrefaction. Then rather tight and austere in the mouth but still suave and smooth, with moderately ripe plum and spicy blackberry flavors. The moderately persistent finish shows a touch of greenness.

The Cat’s Whiskers: Bordeaux 1961 (Oct 2019)

The 1961 Latour is served blind against the Palmer and it comes off second best on this occasion. But that should not take anything away from a quite stupendous Pauillac. Intense black fruit laced with graphite and crushed stone, it is deeply impressive but perhaps lacks a warm personality compared to the Margaux. The palate…

1982 Bordeaux, 20 Years On (Jul 2002)

Full red, with a hint of amber; I’ve had bottles of this that are still ruby. Ineffable aromas of game, smoky oak, herbs and vanilla, with a distinctly wild quality. Extremely powerful and structured, with bracing acidity giving it great grip and buns of steel. Still very tight and young, but less thick than the…

Vinous Table: Trivet, London, UK (Aug 2021)

There was only one way to finish: by switching over to Sauternes for the 2007 d’Yquem. This is a vintage I have tasted several times. Lucid amber in color, it has a reticent nose at first, though it blossoms with aeration to reveal captivating aromas of mirabelle, dried honey and beeswax. A subtle adhesive scent…