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Cellar Favorite: The Fives at Château d’Issan (Mar 2021)

The 2010 Château d’Issan has a very intense bouquet with layers of black fruit interlaced with wild hedgerow, touches of iodine and brine that I noticed on the same bottle a couple of years ago. This still requires a couple of years (or 2-3 hours of decanting) before serving. The palate is much more refined…

The 2010 Clarets: A Modern Classic (Jul 2013)

Bright medium ruby. Wild, musky aromas of black raspberry, cassis, cedar, smoke, leather, game and bitter chocolate. Dense, chewy and dry, with good peppery lift to the cherry skin and bitter chocolate flavors. Finishes with surprisingly fine-grained tannins and a juicy quality. This dry, classic claret needs time in bottle to gain flesh and sweetness….

Squares & Circles: Bordeaux ‘10 At Ten (Apr 2020)

The 2010 Doisy-Védrines has a slight adhesive scent on the nose that obscures the fruit profile. Despite rigorous aeration it does dissipate. The palate is clean and pure on the entry. This has a fine bead of acidity with moderate depth, quite harmonious from start to finish with a twist of orange rind towards the…

Bordeaux 2010: The Sweet Wines (Aug 2011)

Medium-deep yellow-gold. Intense aromas of apricot, pear, peach and white flowers complicated by a touch of spicy oak. Clean, fresh and full on the palate, with enticing flavors of ripe pear, citrus and honey and a lingering peppery papaya finish. Offers sneaky concentration, and the hint of honeyed botrytis at the back adds further complexity….

Mád Idea: Royal Tokaji 1990-2013 (Jul 2019)

The 2007 Essencia is the fifth made in the modern era, and it continues to defy the definition of wine. It gloops onto the spoon, the best way to consume this astonishing elixir. The palate electrifies the senses with almost overwhelming sweetness of apricot, Japanese plum and marmalade, while the acidity miraculously keeps everything on…

2004 Barolo: The Cream Rises to The Top (May 2015)

The 2004 Barolo Croera di La Morra is a one-and-done for Bruno Giacosa, as he made it only once. Soft, forward and open-knit, the 2004 is showing the first signs of maturity in its advanced flavors and fading color. Sweet tobacco, dried flowers, cedar and dried cherries linger on the close.