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Opus One – Past, Present and Future: 1979-2012 (Jun 2013)

A dark, implosive wine, the 2005 Opus One comes across as brooding and very much closed in on itself. Tar, graphite, menthol, licorice and plums inform the powerful, structured finish. This is the most massive, tannic Opus One in recent memory. The blend is 88% Cabernet Sauvignon, 5% Merlot, 3% Petit Verdot, 3% Cabernet Franc…

Vintage Retrospective: 2005 Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon (May 2016)

Deep, saturated ruby-red. Explosive nose combines currant, plum, dried cranberry and minerals, plus some suggestions of very ripe fruit. Plush, dry and classic; more minerally than fruity in the mouth, with complicating notes of herbs, tobacco leaf and dark chocolate. Not a particularly fleshy style; in fact, this very youthful wine is still a bit…

2012 & 2013 Napa Valley: Too Close to Call (May 2024)

The 2013 Cabernet Sauvignon Volcanic Hill feels quite somber in this tasting. Dark fruit, leather, licorice, scorched earth, tobacco, menthol and dried herbs power through. The 2013 remains very youthful. Readers will have to be patient. This is a huge, dense wine with a strong oak signature. This is the estate’s warmest site. That seems…

Napa Valley Trilogy: 2014, 2015 & 2016 (Dec 2016)

The 2013 Cabernet Sauvignon Volcanic Hill presents a stunning interplay of ripe, inky fruit and structure. Dazzling from the first impression, the Volcanic Hill exudes richness, with copious amounts of inky blue/purplish fruit, violet, licorice and graphite. This stunning, captivating Cabernet has the potential to offer truly thrilling drinking for a number of decades. The…

2017 & 2018 Napa Valley In Depth (Jan 2020)

The 2016 Cabernet Sauvignon Volcanic Hill is a very good wine, but some of the nuances that make Volcanic Hill so distinctive are presently masked by copious new French oak. Aeration brings out the wine's natural energy and drive, along with a host of savory and mineral notes that add complexity. Cedar, tobacco, mint, dried…

2007, 2006 and 2005 Bordeaux (May 2008)

($1; 500-$2,000) Deep ruby-red. Reticent, brooding aromas of cassis, black plum, graphite and flowers. Then utterly explosive in the mouth, with wonderful sappy complexity of flavor and a thickness of texture that builds and builds toward the back; almost no sign of the new oak here. Offers a near-magical combination of power and refinement, but…