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2012 and 2011 Chablis (Jul 2013)

Pale yellow. Stone fruits and spices on the nose. Supple, fat and plush but dry on the palate, with very ripe peach and nectarine fruit flavors dominating. Finishes dry, with a flavor of dusty stone. This is actually rather closed in the middle palate today and tricky to taste.

Postcard from Chablis: The 2018s & 2017s (Jan 2020)

The 2018 Chablis Vaillons 1er Cru offers striking precision in its combination of density, richness and energy. Absolutely nothing stands out in a wine that truly dazzles from the very first taste. Citrus, slate, white pepper, mint and crushed rocks all race out of the glass as the aromatics come alive with a bit of…

Fairest of Them All: Cos d’Estournel 1928 – 2015 (Oct 2018)

The 2009 Cos d’Estournel is a wine that I have tasted a dozen times, from barrel until now, blind and non-blind. From the beginning I have been critical of this 2009, a wine built to appease the prevailing demand for hubristic, flamboyant Claret that in the process, lost the essence of its own character and…

Fairest of Them All: Cos d’Estournel 1928 – 2015 (Oct 2018)

The 2009 Cos d’Estournel is a wine that I have tasted a dozen times, from barrel until now, blind and non-blind. From the beginning I have been critical of this 2009, a wine built to appease the prevailing demand for hubristic, flamboyant Claret that in the process, lost the essence of its own character and…

Survive Us All: Latour 1858-2018 (Feb 2024)

The 2008 Latour has a fragrant and floral bouquet with blueberry and blackberry fruit, violet and pressed iris petals, almost Margaux-like in style. The palate is medium-bodied with touches of brown spice on the entry. There’s a good definition here. Graphite notes appear toward a finish that tapers a little, giving away that it comes…

Cellar Favorite: Château Latour: 2019 New Releases (Apr 2019)

The 2008 Latour is dark, brooding and virile, with huge tannins that convey an impression of gravitas. Grilled herbs, leather, sweet pipe tobacco, iron and cedar add to the wine’s distinctive aromatic complexity. There is plenty of density and richness, but the color and slightly advanced flavor profile are a bit out of character. Ideally,…