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Dealing with the New Paradigm: Burgundy 2018 (Nov 2022)

The 2018 Clos de Vougeot Grand Cru has a perfumed nose, perhaps a little worked in the winery, but the fruit is pure and the new oak nicely integrated. Opulent, yet controlled. The palate is medium-bodied with a little hardness to the tannins, quite a worked mixture of red and black fruit that segues into…

2018 Burgundy: Confounded Expectations (Jan 2020)

The 2018 Clos de Vougeot Grand Cru has an intense bouquet of blueberry, cassis and iodine aromas, almost Chambolle-like in style. The medium-bodied palate delivers supple tannins and a fine bead of acidity. Citrus-fresh with orange peel and marmalade notes toward the persistent finish. Excellent.

Through the Other Side: Burgundy 2016 in Bottle (Oct 2019)

The 2016 Volnay Taillepieds 1er Cru has a clean, pure and transparent bouquet with perfumed, floral red berry fruit with more sous-bois character evident compared to its peers. The palate is medium-bodied with a crunchy red fruit note on the entry, quite grippy in the mouth. I find the finish a little bony and requiring…

Red Burgundy ’16 & ’15: Superb Vintages, Different Styles (Jan 2018)

(vinified entirely with whole clusters and aged in 35% new oak; the average vine age here is 65 years and the soil features gravel on limestone): Bright medium-deep red. Deeply pitched, fruit-driven aromas of black raspberry and dark cherry, plus a hint of smoky minerality. Wonderfully plush yet lively, displaying more volume and depth than…

2017 Burgundy: A Modern Classic (Jan 2019)

The 2017 Beaune Grèves 1er Cru has a pure, quite expressive bouquet of maraschino cherries mixed with crushed strawberry and rose petal aromas. The palate is sweet and quite candied on the entry, featuring plush red currant and raspberry notes, and very smooth and open-knit toward the finish. This is a joyful Grèves, though not…

Bordeaux 2019: The Southwold Tasting (Feb 2023)

The 2019 Trottevieille has a slightly disjointed bouquet at first, though it melds together over time, with dusky red fruit laced and tobacco. The palate is medium-bodied with a sapid entry, moderate depth, not amazingly complex with just a little dryness creeping in on the finish. Yet there is promise here and I feel that…