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2018 Burgundy: Confounded Expectations (Jan 2020)

The 2018 Gevrey-Chambertin "Mes Favourites" has a lifted, perfumed bouquet with floral scents permeating the vivid dark cherry and raspberry fruit. The palate is medium-bodied with supple tannins. A little rounder and showing more sucrosity than the "Symphonie," with a succulent finish. Lovely.

Napa Valley’s Extraordinary 2016 Cabernets (Dec 2018)

The 2016 Cabernet Sauvignon Cask 23 is powerful and savory in the glass, with tons of both aromatic nuance and supporting structure that give the wine gravitas as well as a very clear sense of direction. The plum, blackberry jam, grilled herb, lavender and dark spice notes are all very finely drawn in this big…

The Barossa: An Ascent to Higher Quality (Dec 2021)

Opaque ruby. Dark berry preserves, fruitcake, pipe tobacco candied flowers and a hint of vanilla on the deeply perfumed nose. Stains the palate with sappy black and blue fruit, mocha, licorice and rose pastille flavors and exotic spice and mineral nuances add energetic lift. Fleshy and deep but lively as well, with an impressively long,…

Vinous Icons: Roederer – Four Decades of Cristal & Cristal Rosé (Nov 2024)

The 2004 Cristal Rosé is also stellar. Here, time in bottle has added textural depth and Pinot Noir resonance, but without detracting from the wine’s essential tension and cut. Crushed rocks, white pepper, kirsch, mint and red plum fruit all race across the palate. I would love to spend all day with this. The 2004…

Vinous Icons: Roederer – Four Decades of Cristal & Cristal Rosé (Nov 2024)

The 2004 Cristal is nuanced and classy right out of the gate. Hints of lemon confit, marzipan, tangerine oil, spice and chamomile are all suggestive of a Champagne that has arrived at its first inflection point of early maturity. The interplay of slightly more mature notes with a good deal of freshness makes for an…

A Century of…Fours (Jun 2024)

The 2004 Lynch Bages, which contains 84% Cabernet Sauvignon, the highest thus far, has a refined bouquet with blackberry, wild strawberry, orange rind and light graphite scents, holding up very nicely after 20 years. The palate is medium-bodied with a slightly lactic entry, finely balanced with a keen line of acidity and a dash of…