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2014 Red Burgundies: Delicious Terroir-Driven Midweights (Mar 2017)

(from the lieu-dit En Orveaux; just 28 hectoliters per hectare produced): Dark, bright red. Captivating aromas of cherry, red berries and dried flowers are accented by topnotes of white pepper and high-pitched spices. Juicy, spicy, penetrating and dry, with a floral light touch and terrific energy giving its tactile fruit a distinctly sappy character. Finishes…

A Century of…Fours (Jun 2024)

The 2014 Clos de Vougeot Grand Cru has a commendable bouquet blessed with more fruit than some of its peers: redcurrant and cranberry, mulch and light tobacco scents. The palate is medium-bodied with firm tannins (a little austere like many 2014 reds), perhaps just missing a bit of flesh towards the finish. Drink over the…

2014 Red Burgundies: Delicious Terroir-Driven Midweights (Mar 2017)

Good dark red. Cool, youthfully inexpressive nose dominated by black cherry and smoky minerality; the strictest of these 2014s today (Mallard described it as Cistercian). Densely packed and very rich but classically dry, with savory minerality currently holding the upper hand over the wine’s fruit. This extremely backward wine is also showing its new oak…

The 2014 & 2013 White Burgundies (Sep 2015)

Pale yellow. Aromas of oily yellow peach, pear, white flowers and flinty minerality. Sweet, intense and fine-grained, with harmonious acidity and a firm spine of minerality giving energy and finesse to the middle palate. Best today on the rising, resounding finish.

Ten Years On: Burgundy 2013 (Oct 2023)

The 2013 Clos de Vougeot Grand Cru, which included 30% whole clusters, has a relatively rustic bouquet with ferrous red berry fruit and loamy undergrowth/damp moss scents. The palate is medium-bodied with slightly dry tannins, a bit chewy, a broad-shouldered Clos de Vougeot with a grippy and perhaps even uncompromising finish. I feel that the…

The 2013 Red Burgundies: Fascinating and Challenging (Mar 2016)

Deep red with ruby highlights. Riper and blacker but a bit monolithic on the nose and palate. Black cherry and licorice scents lead to dark raspberry and crushed stone in the mouth. Not at all herbal but in a very cool style and tightly wound. This powerful, backward, youthfully uncompromising wine is hard to taste…