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1997 and 1996 Rhone Valley Wines (Jan 1999)

Saturated ruby-red. High-pitched, mourvedre-dominated aromas of blackberry, shoe polish and licorice, with a lightly floral topnote. Very dense and very primary, with an intense spiciness at its core. Quite powerfully structured, even austere, and perhaps already shutting down. Finishes with huge but even palate-coating tannins and great length. This will age in bottle for many…

The 2013 Red Burgundies: Fascinating and Challenging (Mar 2016)

Deep red with ruby highlights. Pungent perfume of black cherry, raspberry, minerals and licorice. Juicy but tightly wound, hinting at a racy high note of blood orange. All of these wines are showing firm tannic spine today but hiding their fat.

Burgundy With A Bit of Age: 2000-2014 (May 2019)

The 2013 Nuits Saint-Georges Aux Boudots 1er Cru might be even better than the Les Lavières with complex aromas of redcurrant, raspberry, bay leaf and crushed red roses. The palate is very detailed and poised, surfeit with tension and energy with a peacock’s tail on the finish that just leaves you gasping for the next…

2016 & 2015 White Burgundy (Sep 2017)

Pale yellow. Sexy scents of white peach, ginger, crushed stone and menthol. Nicely concentrated, layered wine with good energy and lemony cut, not to mention density of grain, for village wine. Finishes penetrating and firm.

2018 Burgundy: Confounded Expectations (Jan 2020)

The 2017 Meursault En La Barre has an earthy nose with hints of wild mushroom infusing the malic fruit. (There is just a touch of reduction, so plan on decanting if opening young.) The palate is well balanced with a fine bead of acidity, a fine sense of energy and possibly a little more persistence…