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The Glorious 2002 Red Burgundies (Feb 2016)

Full reddish brown. Knockout perfumed nose combines raspberry, mocha, truffle and smoky minerality (we’re entering the world of fungus, humus and leaves, noted winemaker Frédéric Barnier). Utterly spherical and round, conveying seamless flavors of raspberry, truffley underbrush and coffee. Slightly edgy tannins and acids draw out and give shape to the finish. But this bottle…

Vinous Table: The Sportsman, Kent, UK (Sep 2022)

The 2004 Saumur-Champigny Les Poyeux from Clos Rougeard has an entrancing nose with perfumed red cherry and crushed strawberry fruit, hints of oxtail and black truffle emerging with time and developing a Bordeaux-like scent, which is not totally unsurprising given the Cabernet Franc in question. The palate is medium-bodied with exquisite balance and a taut…

The 2010 Red Burgundies (Feb 2012)

The 2010 Vosne-Romanée Aux Brûlées comes across as relatively accessible for the year. The bright red fruit shows good definition and harmony on the mid-weight, open finish. There is plenty of energy here, if not quite the complexity or pedigree of the finest wines in the lineup. The Brûlées should enjoy a wide drinking window.

2008 and 2007 Red Burgundies (Mar 2010)

Good full red. Sexy nose combines red berries, hints of game and underbrush. Silky, sappy and harmonious, with excellent energy for the year. This serious, nuanced, vinous wine finishes long and firmly tannic, with a slight youthful austerity.

Vinous Table: Burgundy Charity Auction and Dinner (Jul 2014)

Bonneau du Martray’s 2006 Corton-Charlemagne (magnum) opens with a super-classic bouquet of slate, crushed rocks and hints of reduction. Bracing and intense and energetic, the 2006 flows with superb focus and pure mineral-drenched cut. From magnum, the 2006 is simply dazzling and appears to have many years of fine drinking ahead of it. 95

2017 Bordeaux – Mirror, Mirror on The Wall… (Mar 2020)

During en primeur, the 2017 Lafite-Rothschild was one of the most impressive wines of the Left Bank. Today, it is equally impressive. An ample, richly constituted wine, the 2017 is an unusually dark, somber Lafite, with a percentage of Cabernet Sauvignon that is among the highest ever here. There is a sort of monastic sense…