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Cleaning Out the Cupboard: Bordeaux 1943-2020 (Jan 2023)

The 2005 Batailley is dark in hue with little aging on the rim. The nose is backward, tight and almost “moody”, piqued that it did not undergo a three- to four-hour decant. Firm tannins frame the palate. The oak may not be as assimilated as the best 2005s. Dark chocolate and espresso hints develop with…

The Annual Red Bordeaux Report (May 2006)

Deep ruby-red. Very dark aromas of cassis, blackberry, licorice and bitter chocolate. Ripe, juicy and fresh, with lovely violet lift to the dark berry flavors. Finishes with ripe, dusty tannins and lingering black fruit flavors. Not the last word in complexity but unusually rich and floral in 2005. Wait until 2012.

Looking Back To Go Forward: Lafite-Rothschild 1868 – 2015 (Jul 2018)

The 1998 Lafite-Rothschild is served from double magnum directly from the château reserves, in fact with the man who made it sitting opposite me – Charles Chevalier. I must admit to being quite amazed how well this shows at 20-years of age, trouncing all the other First Growths except Haut-Brion. Lucid in colour, it has…

2000, 1999 and 1998 Bordeaux (May 2001)

Saturated bright ruby. Noble aromas of blackcurrant, cedar, lead pencil, licorice and nutty oak. Very intensely flavored and penetrating, with great class and grip. Impressively concentrated and juicy, but still rather imploded in the middle palate. This showed terrific subtle sweetness as it opened in the glass. Offers quintessential Lafite elegance as well as the…

The Annual Red Bordeaux Report (May 2003)

Full red-ruby. Roasted, smoky aromas of blackberry, blueberry and licorice. Plush, dense and large-scaled; expands impressively in the mouth. Chocolatey-ripe but kept fresh by nicely integrated acidity. Offers lovely sweetness without going over the top. Finishes with big, dusty, horizontal tannins and lovely aromatic persistence. Offers extraordinary texture and depth of flavor for a wine…

The Top Clarets of 2006 (May 2009)

Bright ruby-red. Reduced, wild nose offers black raspberry, graphite, tobacco and dried flowers. Sweet, dense and deep, with a lush texture for the year and a chocolatey ripeness to the flavors of leather, game and cedar. For such a pliant, sexy Pomerol, this has lovely verve and backbone.